Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Ghost Town at Bahia Salinas





Lovely white Chapel and Fishing Lodges on Isla Carmen



We departed Isla San Francisco at 7am in the morning; after motoring for ten hours we reached the beautiful island of Carmen and anchored in Bahia Salinas for the night.  Rollers from the Sea washed into the bay but thankfully not as violent as the night before.  The next morning we took the dinghy into shore to see the tiny village of Salinas consisting of a chapel, a few guest lodges for fishing and hunting, and the interesting ruins of a commercial salt operation.  The once grand salt mining operation, begun in the 1700’s, shipped salt to ports around the world.  Equipment from the operation can still be seen near the salt ponds; the once busy pier, office buildings, supply shops, and housing quarters stand in ruins along the shoreline. 





Picturesque Chapel - Isla Carmen at Bahia Salinas
The salt flats were discovered by the Jesuits in 1697, when their ship the San Jose was taken into Bahia Salinas for repairs.  And so began the harvest of a very fine grade of sea salt.  Over the years, a long line of entrepreneurs were allowed to lease these salt beds for development and production.  Russian ships from Alaska began to visit Isla Carmen every three years to obtain the exceptionlly pure salt for curing furs.  
Fishing and Hunting Lodges - Bahia Salinas
The island and its salt production exchanged hands many times over the next hundred years.  It was owned by California, Oregon & Mexico Steamship Company which was associated with the Santa Fe Railroad.  The Railroad invested considerable money in machinery and other improvements including a small railroad that was constructed at Bahia Salinas.  In the early 1900’s the salt works were bought and sold several times and finally ended up in the hands of the Pacific Salt Co. Limited of London.  
Ruins of the Salt Production Plant at Bahia Salinas
Salt Ponds at Bahia Salinas
As different salt producing areas of the Baja peninsula were discovered and exploited, the salt works on Isla Carmen could not compete due to the high cost of running the operation.  In 1978 it was necessary to close down the salt production plant, a long process which ended in 1983.  
Silence at the Salt Ponds
After 278 years of salt harvest that began with the Jesuits, the small community of Bahia Salinas became a ghost town.  The Salinas del Pacifico still holds title to the island and the salt works.  Today the island serves as a biological preserve for the Desert Bighorn Sheep which were introduced to the island in 1995.  Animals are kept in check by allowing limited hunting; fishing excursions are also offered for guests of Bahia Salinas. 
A Once Importaant Office Building at Salinas
Bahia Salinas
 is definitely an enchanting place and the beautiful scenery feels surreal.  We spent time walking the salt flats and exploring the ruins, imagining the people that once worked here and what life must have been like so long ago.  The white chapel in the tiny village adds to the picturesque setting.  It looks like a scene straight out of the old west; I could just see Clint Eastwood walking around in his serape, and hear the sound of spurs clinging with each step.

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