Windy Memorial Day Weekend



Public Pier at Port San Luis

Once again we found ourselves waiting for weather so we spent some time ashore at the adorable seaside village of Port San Luis.  The public pier is used by boaters as a convenient access to town but there’s no float for dingy tie-up.  Instead, it’s a unique adventure to tie-on to the bottom rung of a ladder and then climb straight up the side of the pier to a staircase which winds to the top.  An added challenge is watching out for the fishing lines hanging over the pier and avoiding the creosote, barnacle covered pilings. 

Ladder and Staircase under Public Pier

Tying-off at the Ladder - Public Pier

A Busy Beach on Memorial Day Weekend

Seaside Village of Port San Luis

Once top-side, it’s a nice walk down the long pier to the lovely beach-side town.  The shops and restaurants were busy with visitors, and bands provided music for the Memorial Day weekend.  We checked out the shops and picked up a few groceries, then it was back to the boat to make ready for an early morning departure.  We left at 6am, passing scenic Point San Luis Lighthouse built in 1890 after a series of shipping accidents.  Port San Luis was established in the late 1800’s when it served as the main shipping port for San Luis Obispo. 

Cute Shops at Port San Luis

Although Avila Beach at Port San Luis still has a working commercial fishing pier and the inland areas have extensive apple orchards, tourism is now the main industry.  The name Avila commemorates Miguel Avila, who was granted the Rancho San Miguelito land in 1842.  As we made our way north, we met 10-18 knot winds with gusts between 19 and 22 knots.  Winds were predicted to worsen in the afternoon but we would be at Morro Bay within 3 hours so it wasn’t a major concern.  

Fog Begins to Move In

We did have the fog to contend with however, and the winds picked up a bit while rounding Point Buchon.  The hours passed quickly and it was soon time to find the bar entrance into Morro Bay through the fog.  We marveled at the mariners of the past who had to constantly find their way without radar or GPS.  We entered the narrow channel into the bay and Morro Rock loomed above us, shrouded in fog.  We found space at the Yacht Club guest dock and tied-up just before the winds began to really blow.  

Morro Rock Shrouded in Fog

Inside Morro Bay Harbor

Coincidentally, our friend Horst, a German/American, happened to be on the dock at Morro Bay Yacht Club and recognized our boat name.  We had been in radio contact with him at Cojo Anchorage and during the rough seas around Point Conception.  We were glad to know he had safely made it into port with his 36 foot sailboat, Pacific Star.  It looks like we will all be here for a while, as more gale force winds are predicted over the next several days.

Winds in the Harbor, Pacific Star on a Buoy

Relatively Speaking

We left Santa Barbara on May 24^th at 10:30am and headed for Cojo Anchorage located south of Point Conception, a six-hour cruise.  We planned to round Point Conception early the following morning, hopefully avoiding the worst of the weather.  



Natural Oil Seep

As we headed north from Santa Barbara and neared an oil rig, we smelled the strong order of oil and saw a large oil slick on the surface of the water.  “We should call that in, perhaps the old rig is leaking,” said Leonard.  “Or maybe the oil is a natural seepage from the ocean floor, I replied.”  I had read that oil seeps are common in the Santa Barbara area and this phenomenon has occurred for thousands of years.  The Indians spoke of oil in the region and later the Spanish made note of the abundance of oil as well.  

Seeping from Subterranean Oil Reserve

We called the Santa Barbara Coast Guard to report our sighting; and sure enough, we were told that it was a natural seepage.  Petroleum seeps are quite common in various areas around the world.  Because of the movement of the San Andreas and other faults around Santa Barbara, rupturing in the earth allows oil and gas from subterranean reservoirs to seep up from the sea floor.  Lighter than seawater, the oil floats to the surface; some 20-25 tons of oil are emitted each day near Santa Barbara.  Microbes consume most of it, but not all of the compounds.  Research has shown that nature works well acting on oil but somehow the microbes stop eating at a certain point and it’s not yet understood why.  Perhaps oil rigs aren't so bad after all, especially in areas with natural seepage.  As we continued further north past the oil rigs, the wind and waves began to pick up.  We experienced 18-30 knot winds with gusts between 35-42 knots and sea swells up to 8 feet at 8 seconds apart, rougher than expected.  Dolphins were surfing the waves throughout most of our journey; they charged the boat head on, appearing like torpedoes streaking through the water.  A little later we were startled by a whale that surfaced near the boat, then dove to avoid his very close call.  

Cojo Anchorage south of Point Conception

Cojo Anchorage

The winds continued to howl as we reached our anchorage and set the hook.  Located along the beach were the skeletons of two sailboats which sadly met their end; perhaps their anchor slipped and they were washed ashore, another solemn reminder of the perils of the sea.  

Sailboats Washed Ashore at Cojo Anchorage

Fortunately, the winds settled down for the night but our sleep was short lived, we had an early 4:30am departure the following morning.  The seas appeared calm in the bay, but we knew they would quickly become lumpy, especially when rounding the Point.  We were hopeful to meet reasonable seas, but “reasonable” is a relative term when compared to the 18-20 foot seas that occurred earlier in the week while we waited in Santa Barbara.  

Surf Near Point Conception

As it turned out, we only experienced 8-11 foot seas!  The winds kept up all day ranging from 18-42 knots, not exactly our idea of fun.  We had expected the seas to get better after we passed Point Conception but there was no relief in sight.  We still had three hours to go before reaching Morro Bay; and once there, we would have to cross the bar.  

Port San Luis

Anchored Among the Fishing Boats

Since the seas were growing ever larger, we decided to duck into nearby Port San Luis, which is protected from northwest winds, and anchor for the night. Our legs were tired from standing and our arms sore from turning the helm and holding on like a cowboy riding a prize bull.  It was time to rest!  But first we had to find a spot to set the anchor among the many boats who had arrived to escape the fury of the sea.  We found space among the fishing boats and settled in for the evening.   A cute sea otter also decided it was time to relax, riding on some kelp next to our boat.

Boats at Anchor in Port San Luis

 



A Cute Sea Otter Relaxes among the Kelp

Danish and Spanish Influences



Solvang Locator Map

Danish Tradition at Solvang

Today we rented a car and drove to the Danish town of Solvang located northwest of Santa Barbara near the Santa Ynez Mountains.  Solvang was founded in 1911 by a group of Danes who traveled westward.  Between 1850 and 1930, a considerable number of Danes left Denmark which was suffering from poor economic conditions.  According to some estimates, as many as one in ten Danes emigrated during this period, mostly to the United States. 


Shops and Cafes at Solvang

Around 1906 Pastors Nordentoft and Gregersen along with lecturer Hornsyld discussed creating a new Danish colony with a dedicated Lutheran church and school on the west coast of the United States far from the harsh mid-western winters.  In 1910, together with other Danish Americans, they created the Danish-American Colony Company in San Francisco.  Later that year, suitable land was found in the Santa Ynez Valley and a contract was signed to purchase 9,000 acres of the Rancho San Carlos de Jonata land grant, paying an average of $40 per acre. 


The Clock Tower at Solvang

The city today offers visitors the taste and feel of Denmark through its architecture and cuisine.  Many of the facades and buildings reflect the traditional Danish style and one can’t resist all the good bakeries and cafes.  

Solvang Countryside

The Santa Ynez Valley was originally inhabited by the Chumash, and the Spanish missionaries were successful at getting the Chumash to adopt the Spanish way of life, including Mission Santa Ines located near the center of today’s Solvang.  

Mission Santa Ines

Mission Santa Ines was founded in September of 1804 and it was the Chumash who built the aqueduct for the Mission.  A pipe made from tiles brought water to the Mission from the Alamo Pintado River located one and a half miles to the north.  

Courtyard at Mission Santa Ines

Franciscan Alexander Buckler arrived at the Mission in 1904 and began to restore many of the buildings; and his niece, Mamie Goulet, began restoration of the vestments.  The bell-tower was rebuilt after collapsing in 1911 with the help of some of the newly arrived Danish settlers.  Later the Capuchin Franciscan Fathers from Ireland were assigned to Mission Santa Ines and they began a massive renovation in 1947.  They also created the museum and began cataloging the art and artifacts discovered at the Mission.  

Mission Cemetery

The Capuchin Franciscans continue today to serve the needs of its parish members and the community of Solvang.  The Cemetery located on site is dedicated to the memory of over two thousand Chumash who built, lived, and died at Santa Ines.  It also serves as the final resting place of close to five hundred early settlers and five Friars who served at the Mission.

Carriages to Cars

 



The Carriage & Western Art Museum in Santa Barbara actively preserves the colorful western days of the region, displaying a collection of horse-drawn conveyances manufactured from 1850 to 1911.  Many of the carriages, buggies, and wagons are used in the “Old Spanish Days Parade” during Santa Barbara’s annual Fiesta Celebration. 

A nice Collection of Saddles

The stagecoach was an important form of transportation from Santa Barbara to Los Olivos during 1861-1901.  A team of six horses pulled a twelve passenger coach up the famous Slippery Rock Route, a trek which took 8 hours with three stops for a fresh team of horses; today the distance can be covered in half an hour.  The museum collection also includes one of a kind silver saddles and equestrian tack by noted leather craftsmen such as Bohlin and Visalia.  Saddles that once belonged to Will Rogers, Clark Gable, and Ronald Reagan are also on display along with an original western mural by famed artist Ed Borein. 

The museum additionally serves as a site for special events like weddings, anniversaries, and corporate parties.  In fact, a party was preparing to get underway as we finished up our tour of the museum.  

One of several Carriages used in Fiesta Celebrations

Beautiful Wine Keg Wagon

After touring the conveyances of the past, we rode our bikes into town and discovered that State Street, the main drag, was blocked off for an antique car show.  Eight city blocks were lined with shiny cars in mint condition representing different makes and models, a wonderful showing and fun event complete with ribbons and prizes for each category.  

Crowded Streets at the Car Show



Leonard did some Drooling Too

Due to the crowds of people drooling over their favorite cars, we had to walk our bicycles along the street most of the way.  While in town, we also visited The Reagan Ranch Center, a gallery which features original artifacts from the Reagan Ranch and highlights the accomplishments of his presidency.  The Center, which houses interactive multi-media exhibits, provides visitors access to Reagan's speeches, interviews, radio addresses, and original video presentations.  The Center in addition to The Reagan Ranch are owned by the Young America’s Foundation , a partnership of young people who share conservative ideas held so dear by President Reagan – the ideals of hard work, self-sufficiency, and responsibility along with the conviction that big government limits opportunities and limits choices so important for individuals and small businesses to succeed.  Reagan himself was self-made, having had parents of modest means.  As a boy, he moved numerous times with his family while his father looked for work as a shoe salesman; his mother worked as a salesclerk and seamstress, she also organized drama recitals which gave Ron an introduction to acting.  

Ronald Reagan's Sky Ranch and Modest Adobe Home

For higher education, Ronald Reagan was able to attend college on a partial football scholarship.  To pay for the difference, he washed dishes at a fraternity and dormitory, worked as a lifeguard and swim coach, and still managed to send money home.  Reagan believed in making the most of every opportunity; and if opportunities didn’t present themselves, then it was time to create one's own opportunity for employment.  

Reagan at his beloved Ranch del Cielo

In his latter years, Reagan continued to demonstrate the “can do” attitude on his beloved ranch, building fences, chopping wood, and engaging in other farm chores.  The six-hundred acre ranch, Rancho del Cielo (Sky Ranch), is located northwest of Santa Barbara, just 9 miles south of Los Olivos with a modest adobe home on the property built in the 1800’s; the ranch was purchased for what might be considered the cost of an average home by today’s standards.

New Spain at Santa Barbara

 



El Presidio and Chapel

 

While held up in Santa Barbara waiting for the weather to clear, we were able to visit some of the local historic sites and points of interest.  Today we visited El Presidio and Casa de la Guerra.  Founded April 21, 1782, the Santa Barbara Presidio was the last of four Royal Presidios (Spanish military outposts) built in Alta California. 


Presidio Chapel Interior

The first Commandant was Jose Francisco Ortega, who planned the fortifications and irrigation works.  He also obtained livestock for the presidio, established orchards, and began large-scale farming.  A field of wheat was planted by the Chumash Indians under Chief Yanonalit.  The town (pueblo) of Santa Barbara developed around the Presidio as it offered protection for the residents and also housed a chapel of worship. 


El Cuartel Adobe

During its sixty years of operation, the Presidio was never attacked by a strong military force; however, it was subject to the assaults of nature including earthquakes.  Only two portions of the original presidio quadrangle survive to this day:  the Canedo Adobe and El Cuartel (both built 1788) are the oldest buildings in Santa Barbara and the second oldest standing adobe structures in the State of California.  

Large Adobe Bricks over a Stone Foundation

Other portions of the Presidio have been reconstructed over their original foundations.  On-going archaeological digs have unearthed a communal cooking area along with pottery and utensils, a 19-foot deep well, and segments of the original outer defense wall.  The first defense wall was completed in 1789.  The wall was over nine and a half feet high and four feet thick.  It had four layers of large cobblestones below the ground, and another layer above ground.  The adobe bricks were mortared in place on top of the foundation and painted with lime wash to protect the adobe from erosion.  Each adobe brick measured 11” x 22” x 4” and weighed over forty pounds.  

Presidio Orchard

It took five years for the Presidio soldiers, along with hired Chumash Indian laborers, plus sailors from supply ships and convicts sent to Alta California to make all of the adobe bricks and complete the construction including walls and buildings. 


Also located in town is The Casa de la Guerra, constructed in the 1820’s by a later Commandant of the Presidio, Jose de la Guerra.  During his lifetime, the Casa was the economic, political, and social center of the pueblo of Santa Barbara.  

Casa de la Guerra

Built during a time when the average residence was a one-room adobe, the house set the pattern for adobe construction during later, more affluent times.  Remodeled from time to time to fit changing family needs, it also reflected the changing aesthetic tastes of the community.  Among Santa Barbara’s wealthiest and most influential citizens, Jose Guerra stood out as the patriarchal figure.  His legacy survived through the political activity of his son Pablo during the early years of U.S. statehood and with his daughters, Herminia and Delfina, in the fiesta celebrations that took place around the Casa.  Today, Santa Barbara keeps the fiesta tradition alive by celebrating “Old Spanish Days Fiesta” every year around the first week of August.

The Guerra Family



The Peace to be in this house of the Guerra




Note Lath Ceiling made from natural materials 

Descendents of Jose lived in the Casa until 1943

Waiting Out Weather



Oil Rigs off the coast of Santa Barbara

From San Diego we made our way into Santa Barbara after 24 hours of motoring, our first overnight cruising in U.S. waters in over a year.  We arrived off the coast of Santa Barbara in the daylight, avoiding the dozen or more oil rigs standing off shore; not that it would be a problem at night since they are all brightly lit and can be seen for miles.  We find them rather noble looking, but I suppose it depends on your point of view.  

Point Conception located west of Santa Barbara

After checking the weather, we realized we would be staying in Santa Barbara for a week or more due to extreme conditions around Point Conception.  Our previous journey around this prominent headland presented no problem during our earlier southbound trip.  However, this natural division between Southern and Central California often presents challenging seas for mariners.  

Strong Winds indicated around Point Conception

For centuries, Point Conception has been called the Cape Horn of the Pacific because of the heavy northwest gales encountered off the Point and along the Santa Barbara Channel.  Richard Dana first coined its nickname after a harrowing passage in gale force winds in 1834.  Maybe that yacht transport will be catching up with us after all.  I must admit, however, Santa Barbara is a great place to enjoy the wait, offering numerous historic sites, wonderful beaches, and fun shopping - Lorena shopping, Leonard's worst nightmare!  J   


It's Getting Worse!