Friday, May 17, 2013

Waiting Out Weather



Oil Rigs off the coast of Santa Barbara
From San Diego we made our way into Santa Barbara after 24 hours of motoring, our first overnight cruising in U.S. waters in over a year.  We arrived off the coast of Santa Barbara in the daylight, avoiding the dozen or more oil rigs standing off shore; not that it would be a problem at night since they are all brightly lit and can be seen for miles.  We find them rather noble looking, but I suppose it depends on your point of view.  
Point Conception located west of Santa Barbara
After checking the weather, we realized we would be staying in Santa Barbara for a week or more due to extreme conditions around Point Conception.  Our previous journey around this prominent headland presented no problem during our earlier southbound trip.  However, this natural division between Southern and Central California often presents challenging seas for mariners.  


Strong Winds indicated around Point Conception
For centuries, Point Conception has been called the Cape Horn of the Pacific because of the heavy northwest gales encountered off the Point and along the Santa Barbara Channel.  Richard Dana first coined its nickname after a harrowing passage in gale force winds in 1834.  Maybe that yacht transport will be catching up with us after all.  I must admit, however, Santa Barbara is a great place to enjoy the wait, offering numerous historic sites, wonderful beaches, and fun shopping - Lorena shopping, Leonard's worst nightmare!  J   

It's Getting Worse!

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Cruising Mexico, a Summary

 
 


Cozy Adobe Home - San Blas
Yes, we are definitely glad that we made the trip to Mexico and so much enjoyed the country's people and culture.  We gained valuable insights and experience while cruising the waters of Mexico which no doubt will prove helpful for future excursions.  Equipment & Services:  We found cell phone coverage in Mexico to be surprisingly good and received signal within 12 miles of the coastline most of the time.  When not near a town or village, we lost coverage but usually for only 2-3 hours at a time.  To help eliminate some of the down time, we purchased a “cell phone range extender” and discovered that it works very well, picking up signals that we would not have had otherwise.  Because this electronic device doesn’t seem to work in large cities where there’s interference, some people are under the impression that it doesn’t work at all.  However, in remote areas where you need it the most, the “cell phone range extender” works marvelously.  Guidebooks recommend a Single Side-Band Radio (SSB) for obtaining weather and voice/email communication.  We found it’s not necessary for coastal cruising; however if you’re planning to go off-shore (crossing oceans), then a SSB becomes important.  Guidebooks also recommend a Satellite phone for both coastal cruising and off-shore cruising, but we did’nt find it to be necessary.  Having a Satellite phone does provide a sense of security in the form of backup communication.  Water is like gold in Mexico, a precious commodity that is not always available, even at some marinas.  Most marinas have water but it’s advertised as not potable.  It’s important for boaters to have a “water-maker” and a sophisticated filtering system for dock water.  Some marinas get their water from the city, some have water trucked in, and others make their own with commercial water makers.  It’s almost impossible to determine the quality of water at the dock so boaters need to purify the water before filling their tanks.  It was our practice to use a “three-stage water filter” while filling our water tank and we never had any adverse affects from using water at the marinas.  Moorage:  Most moorage prices at marinas are comparable to those in the States and include showers, laundry services, and electrical hookups.  We discovered that boat traffic during the 2012-2013 boating season was lighter than in previous years.  As a result, we found cheaper prices for moorage and plenty of vacant boat slips.  While we did phone ahead for space, we never had any problem finding available moorage.  Weather:  We used several sources for weather information, all of which are available over the internet:  www.saildocs.com; www.sailflow.com; www.buoyweather.com; and www.sonrisanet.org.  Thankfully, we managed the hot climate without air-conditioning and never really felt uncomfortable except at Manzanillo, our furthest point south.  We usually had a nice breeze flowing through the open windows which kept things comfortable.  For points further south however, and especially during the summer months, air-conditioning would definitely be important.  Fuel:  We are happy to report that we never had a problem with fuel; and although we have a “Baja fuel filter,” we never used it.  We always purchased fuel from reputable places of business and never received any fuel with contaminates or water.  The price of diesel fuel was very consistent at $3.50 to $4.00 per gallon including taxes. 




Lovely Home at La Cruz near Puerto Vallarta
Anchoring and Going a Shore:  We became very practiced at anchoring, a necessary skill for the Pacific Baja coast, Sea of Cortez, and also useful for mainland Mexico.  To go ashore, a good dinghy is indispensable along with some know how regarding the surf.  Dinghy wheels are necessary to get into shore when there’s extreme surf, which is often the case along the coast.  Timing is the key; you want to ride the back side of a wave as it takes you into shore and have the wheels down to protect the motor as you hit the shallow beach.  Then it’s a matter of pulling the dinghy up on shore with the assistance of the wheels, easily done on hard-packed sand; not so easy with a 450 pound dinghy on soft sand!  When leaving, we found it works best to go out backwards - lower the motor just enough to start the engine and motor backwards until you’re in deeper water, then spin around and head out.  No matter what, you are going to get wet walking through the water at start and finish so shorts and swimsuits are the uniform of the day.  When there’s little to no surf, we use the bungee-cord method.  We motor close to shore, throw out an anchor that’s attached to a bungee-cord and then motor the rest of the way into shore, step off and tie the bow line to a rock or tree leaving plenty of slack.  Then we release the dinghy and the bungee-cord takes the dinghy out to sea held in place by the anchor.  When departing, we simply retrieve the dinghy by pulling in on the bow line.  
Home Sweet Home - La Paz
Language:  Although it’s helpful to know some basic Spanish, it’s not usually needed since most Mexicans speak fluent English.  Locals do appreciate the effort however, and it demonstrates a show of respect.  Tour operators, major hotels, most businesses, and marinas all have personnel who speak English.  We did find some Government run marinas, however, where only Spanish was spoken.  My basic Spanish skills got us through the process of reserving and paying for space.  Spanish is really quite easy to learn and lots of fun; the language demonstrates consistent rules with very few exceptions.  I used several learning tools including “Madrigal’s Magic Key to Spanish, a Creative and Proven Approach” by Margarita Madrigal; “See it & Say it in Spanish” by Margarita Madrigal; “Easy Spanish Phrase Book” by Dover Publications; and “Spanish in 10 minutes a day,” a workbook and CD by Bilingual Books, Inc.  I created some note cards and also made use of a good Spanish/English Dictionary.  Not having taken a foreign language before, it was really rewarding when I could say something in Spanish and actually be understood.  Yes, it’s more difficult to learn a different language in your 60’s but you can still learn enough to get by. 


Grocery Tienda - Turtle Bay Village
Grilling Fish, Lobster, Chicken, and Plantains - San Blas
Food:  Even in the smallest villages you can find basic groceries and in larger towns find well stocked grocery stores, but you won’t find a huge variety from which to choose like in the States.  We did discover several Costco stores where boaters can stock up on supplies, namely at Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, and Puerto Vallarta.  We also found Sam’s Club stores in the major cities and towns of Mexico. 









Eating out is inexpensive and it’s a great way to get to know a town and its people.  The best restaurants are usually those frequented by locals and often located off the beaten path.  Beach-side palapas are fun too, serving fresh smoked, grilled fish for a casual afternoon meal.  Due to the hot climate, we noticed that our refrigerator was working harder to keep things cool, so providing good ventilation for the unit is important.  We soon learned to purchase the ultra-pasteurized milk, sold in cartons off the grocery store shelves; it keeps much longer and tastes pretty much the same as that in the States.  Safety:  We never felt unsafe, day or night, in the coastal towns of Mexico.  Random violence and domestic violence is extremely rare.  Quite frankly, we feel more uncomfortable and wary of our surroundings in U.S. cities.  Violence that does take place in Mexico is primarily due to conflicts between the drug cartels, which thankfully we never saw.  U.S. citizens traveling outside the United States can go online and sign up for the State Department Travel Adviser services to receive notices of recent adverse activities and unsafe areas for the country in which they are traveling.  We received one such notice for the vicinity around Acapulco.  Most people in Mexico are honest, hard working, very courteous and friendly, and want to be helpful.  Like any country, however, there are a few bad apples that spoil the barrel.  Dinghy and motor thefts do take place from time to time and boaters are advised to hoist up their dinghy and secure it each night when anchored in remote areas.  It’s surprising how many little villages are tucked in the valleys and hillsides of what appears to be a barren landscape.  
Refurbished Home - Santa Rosalia
Living in Mexico:  Many expatriates from Canada and the U.S. have made Mexico their home.  The pleasant weather, low cost of living, and the genuinely warm-hearted people have attracted young entrepreneurs as well as retirees to many towns in Mexico.  Our favorite towns to call home include La Paz, Loreto, and Mazatlan.  There is much to see and do in this country of vast distances, grand mountains, dry arid landscapes, and tropical forests not to mention its history and culture.  We already miss the friendly people of Mexico and our new found friends we’ve left behind; no doubt Mexico will call to us again and we will return to continue our adventure.


Home Overlooking the Lagoon at Barra de Navidad
A Cute Hideaway in Loreto

Friday, May 10, 2013

Crossing the Border



Our Tattered Mexico Flag - Marina Coral, Ensenada
Negotiating Boat Traffic at San Diego
 
After considering the option of shipping our boat to Victoria, B.C., we decided to continue motoring north on our own boat bottom; yacht transport pickups in Ensenada were scheduled for early June, later than we hoped.  We told ourselves that we could save the money to have the boat shipped back south and start where we left off, continuing our southbound journey.  We cleared customs in Ensenada for exiting Mexico the day before our early morning departure on May 10th.  We had paid an agent at Marina Coral to help us take care of the necessary documents, including the receipt of a Zarpe.  The Zarpe, or clearance document, is required in order to leave Mexico and is also needed when entering the next country; in our case, good old USA.  We departed Ensenada around 6am and reached that imaginary line in the water, crossing the border into the United States at approximately 1pm, “we made it!”  It was time to ceremoniously lower our Mexico courtesy flag, but there wasn’t much left of it!  After seven months under the sun’s harsh UV rays and exposure to windy conditions, our poor courtesy flag was badly faded and ripped to shreds - a piece of the flag was completely missing, a testament to our wild adventures at sea.  In preparation for clearing US customs at San Diego, we raised the yellow quarantine flag in its place and continued towards the harbor entrance.  We could tell immediately that we had entered US waters.  Military planes and helicopters flew overhead, cargo ships moved through the shipping lanes, and navy ships were out on patrol.  Boats of every shape and size came and went from the harbor, a scene unlike that of Mexico where we had little to no traffic except at Cabo. 

Marine Traffic Can Get Tight!
As we headed down the marked channel, sailboats crisscrossed back and forth, yachts and tour boats sped by, and a naval ship bore down on us from behind.  We had to keep a sharp lookout and adjust to the reality of boat traffic.  

Java Watching our Backside
As we approached the Harbor Police Dock to clear customs, we could see that it was full and had to wait a few minutes for a Coast Guard vessel to depart.  We moved into the vacant space and then made the requisite phone call to the customs office.  Within 30-minutes, two armed agents in uniform came to our boat. They looked at our paperwork and asked some basic questions:  “from where did you depart, where are you headed, and where do you keep your boat in Seattle?”  And “do you have any meat on board?”  We had some ham slices which were confiscated because pork products cannot be brought into the country, even if it is cooked and packaged.  To our surprise they didn't ask to see Java’s immunization records, and did not conduct any type of search through the boat.  They also didn’t ask about our purchases in Mexico, or how much alcohol was on board, or if we had brought any plants with us.  They seemed more interested in collecting their fee of $27.50.  Like Mexico, however, they did have a collection of rubber stamps which they put to good use!

A Navy Ship Close Behind


Got d' Fever at the Harbor Police Dock - San Diego

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Ensenada, Then and Now



Riviera del Pacifico Cultural Center
Today we rode the shuttle into town to have lunch and enjoy the sights of Ensenada.  Of historic significance is the Riviera del Pacifico Cultural and Convention Center, where a small flee market was taking place.  As we walked into the courtyard and went on a self-guided tour of the building, we realized we had discovered something very special.  We found the intricate carved wood ceilings and painted motifs exquisite. 
The structure was once home to a hotel and gambling casino.  Prohibition had sent U.S. citizens south of the border in search of entertainment and alcohol, creating new opportunities for capital investments.  The North American Compania Mexicana del Rosarito decided to establish a grand hotel in Ensenada, initially called the Hotel Playa de Ensenada, which opened in 1930.  The hotel and casino was originally managed by Jack Dempsey and supposedly financed by Al Capone.  Its clientele included Lana Turner, Marion Davies, William Hearst, Frank Morgan, and many others.  The interior was much in vogue at the time, plush and elegant. 


Casino Room of the Hotel
All the furnishings and décor were brought in from around the world.  Mosaics, chandeliers, and lamps came from Spain; wrought iron grilles of old colonial Havana adorned the windows and arches; rich tapestries once hung on the walls and Persian rugs covered the floors; and a select assembly of Spanish furniture and Chinese commodes filled the rooms.  Many of the walls, as well as the ceilings were constructed with Florida wormwood cypress and painted with murals by Alfredo Ramos Martinez, a Mexican artist that was greatly admired and an important figure of the time. 
From its beginning, the hotel was burdened by huge debts and weekend clientele wasn’t sufficient to sustain the property.  In 1931 new capitol came in, principally through the person of Jerome Utley, a Detroit contractor and builder of General Motors.  But times had changed.  The Depression and the U.S. repeal of Prohibition in 1935 plus the abolition of gambling in Mexico, decreed by President Lazaro Cardenas, was a fatal combination.  The hotel finally closed in 1938 with a number of lawsuits filed against it.  During WWII the hotel was used as a Military Headquarters.  Both Mexican and U.S. Officers lived there since it was feared that the Japanese would invade the Pacific coasts through Baja California.  In 1942 the Army moved to new quarters and the hotel was then used as a set for the Hollywood movie “Women of the Night” with a plot of war intrigue.  Virginia Christine (of Mrs. Olsen coffee commercials) was the female star.  
One of many Beautiful Ceilings
The second golden era for the hotel (renamed the Hotel Riviera del Pacifico) was ushered in with the fifties.  Ensenada was growing and the hotel served as a grand setting for main events of the city and of the State of Baja.  National and international conventions were often held in the monumental ballroom and Presidents of Mexico were routinely received at the hotel with a tradition of gentility.  
Wormwood Cypress Ceilings throughout
Saddled with debt, the Mexican Government eventually took over the property and managed the business intermittently until January 1964 when the hotel closed forever.  The Title was later transferred to another government department in charge of beautifying the border cities.  They proceeded to “reform” the hotel but the people of Ensenada expressed their concern.  They were told the changes would be minor and that if the city did not want to progress, they would take the money elsewhere.  The people voted for progress and a year later, the hotel was destroyed.  
Equisite Wood Work
When the project ceased due to a change in government, only the walls and beautiful ceilings remained along with a chandelier in the casino because it wouldn’t fit through the door – sadly, the site remained in this condition for 14 years.  In 1964 a group of citizens demanded its restoration, which finally began in 1978.  President Jose’ Lopez Portillo turned the property over to the State Government and it was rebuilt to become what it is today.  A happy symbiosis had been reached converting it into a social, civic, and cultural center for the city of Ensenada.



Fixture and Intricate Wood Ceiling in Casino

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Chasing the Weather Window


Calm Seas At Last


We managed about 4 hours of sleep between our 2am arrival into Punta Abreojos and our 7:30am departure that same morning.  Good weather was predicted for the next leg of our journey to Bahia del Tortugas (Bay of the Turtles), located 12-hours away.  Indeed, we were greeted with light winds and gentle 2-4 foot ocean swells; now that’s more like it!  By noon the seas were flat calm and remained pleasant for our entire 12-hour leg to Turtle Bay. 

Fuel Barge - Turtle Bay
This pretty bay is a popular stop for boaters to rest up from hours of motoring, get fuel, and experience the village lifestyle.  Some enterprising locals provide a much needed marine fuel service; and in good Mexican fashion, business operations here are simple and straight forward.  When we entered the bay, we were greeted by the two different fuel panga businesses anxious to take our fuel order.  We requested 150 gallons of diesel to be delivered the following morning by what they call the fuel barge.  The barge turns out to be a large panga with a 500 gallon fuel storage tank built in the center.  They motor up alongside your boat, hand you the hose, and start their pump.  



The Fuel Looks Good
To power the fairly large electric pump, they use a standard household Honda gas powered generator for electricity.  They yank on the start cord, and you’re in business!  Of course this sort of setup would never be permitted in the States, but you have to admire people who live in remote areas, see a need, and find the most economical solution. 
Friendly Local Service
After taking on fuel, we called up the weather reports and found the good weather window was still waiting for us – time to go.  The guidebooks all say that when you have good sea conditions for your northbound trip, you go and keep going.  

Leaving Bahia del Tortugas
We departed Turtle Bay around 11am; our route took us past beautiful Cedros Island on a course heading for Bahia San Quintin where we planned to anchor for the night.  A sailboat which had also departed Turtle Bay became our impromptu buddy boat.  It was nice to have some company and talk with them on the radio, wiling away the hours.  We discovered that they had participated in the Baja Ha Ha and were heading back home to Portland.  
Beautiful Cedros Island
As darkness fell winds reached into the teens, perfect for sailing while still comfortable for power boats.  Around 10am the next morning, we were nearing San Quintin, “what the heck, why don’t we just keep going; we can do another night’s cruise can’t we?”  And so after motoring 280 nautical miles for 36 hours, our longest continuous trek ever, we arrived in Ensenada at11pm on May 6th.


Another Night's Cruising






Arrival at Marina Coral - Ensenada
Downtown Waterfront Harbor - Ensenada

Sunday, May 5, 2013

The Bash Continues


We departed Bahia Santa Maria at 6:20am on May 3rd for the next leg of our journey, a 34-hour motoring to Bahia Tortugas across a large bay that takes us up to 50 miles off shore.  Thirty-four hours is a long time to depend on weather forecasts that are already a few hours old.  We decided to create a route that would take us past the village of Punta Abreojos for internet coverage and get a weather update.  We also chose Punta Abreojos as an alternate anchorage destination if things should turn ugly; it proved to be a wise plan! 
Punta Abreojos south of Bahia Tortugas
Conditions were fairly descent during the day but nightfall brought its bag of tricks once again.  After dark, northwest winds began to blow between 26 and 35 knots, stirring up waves that swept in from several different directions; these “confused seas” are a boater’s worst nightmare.  To make things worse it was a moonless night and a marine cloud layer hung over the water - we couldn’t see what was in front of us.  We knew that waves were coming at us from multiple directions slamming into the bow, quarter sides, and mid-ships.  Got d’ Fever was making all sorts of gyrations.  We could actually feel the G-forces on our body as she rolled, pitched, and yawed through the confused seas; it was like being subjected to an aeronautics centrifuge test for pilots.  Things moved and slid inside the boat that had never moved before.  A million thoughts ran through my mind, “wow, how do they build boats to withstand such forces?”  “There must be a lot of stress on the hull and working parts of the boat.”  “The engines have never died on us; I sure hope it stays that way.”  We were 14 hours into our original 34-hour cruise when we decided to head for anchorage at Punta Abreojos which was still 3 hours away.  We hadn’t seen another boat all day, when low and behold, we saw an intermittent AIS signal on our screen indicating that a sailboat was about four miles ahead of us.  The AIS signal however was intermittent at best; perhaps their equipment was malfunctioning.  It was also difficult to spot them on Radar since sailing vessels have less surface with very little radar reflectivity.  Nevertheless, we were still able to track their position from the intermittent radar reflection and intermittent AIS indications.  Knowing that sailboats often change course or direction, we tried to contact them on the VHF radio but there was no response.  We were haunted by the thought of running into their boat at any moment as the sensation of speed is magnified at night.  By the time we caught up to them, they were safely off our port side. 

Rocks, Reefs, and Shoals around Punta Abreojos
Now we could concentrate on the approach into Punta Abreojos, just an hour away.  We got out the guidebooks to refresh our knowledge and gather pertinent information about the bay.  Leonard turned to me and read a quote from Charlie’s Charts - Mexico written by Charles and Margo Wood – “A night approach to this area should not be made under any circumstances.”  Yes, it’s a nasty place with offshore rocks and reefs spread around the bay.  Fisherman often set lobster traps on the shallow shelf that extends from shore to seaward that can foul boat props.  A fitting name, “Abre ojos” means “open the eyes,” but that doesn’t help at night!  “Oh great, did you save our tracks in and out of the bay from the last time we were here?” I asked.  “Yes indeed, I always save our tracks,” replied Leonard.  What a life saver, all we had to do was follow our bread crumb trail, confident that the route was safe.

Thursday, May 2, 2013

What’s that Foul Smell?



Sea Strainer Basket
While anchored in Bahia Santa Maria awaiting weather, Leonard made use of his time by cleaning out the sea strainers.  Sea strainers filter debris from sea water that is used to cool the engines; it's necessary to periodically empty out the strainer baskets.  Disappearing below decks, Leonard began this important task and soon a most unpleasant smell rose from the engine room, filling the entire boat.  “What’s that terrible stench!?” I asked.  Leonard appeared from the engine room with a bucket of sea water filled with krill.  The sides and bottom of the sea strainers were thick with these tiny critters. 

Krill
“Now I know what whale breath smells like” Leonard said as he dumped the water back into the sea.  We opened the doors, windows, and turned on the fans to rid the boat of the fowl, obnoxious order.  Even Java wondered what in the world could cause such a stench and from where was it coming?  The lowly krill averages only about two inches in length, but it is a giant link in the global food chain.  These small, shrimp-like crustaceans are the main staple in the diets of literally hundreds of different animals, from fish to birds, to baleen whales, seals, and squid. 





Krill, an important link in the food chain
Commercial fishing of krill provides bait for sport fishermen, aquarium feeds, and is even added to pet food.  In Japan and Russia, krill is used for human consumption but we’ll pass on that, thank you.  Later that day we were visited by a local fisherman in a panga, offering to sell his fresh catch of lobster.  Who could resist such an offer?  We paid for the lobster and he thoughtfully cleaned and prepared it; all we had to do was cook it!  Fishermen in these remote villages appreciate purchases to help support their families and also appreciate other gifts like candy for their children and grandchildren; we were happy to oblige.
Fishing Huts at Bahia Santa Rosalia


A Local Fisheman Shares His Catch
Cleaned Lobster Ready to Grill
BBQ Grilled Lobster Dinner