A Comfortable Life Style



Crescent Sandy Beach and Negative-Edge Swimming Pool

Relaxing at the Pool - CostaBaja Resort

CostaBaja Resort

We had a great time with John bicycling around La Paz and sorry that his stay had come to an end.  Even Java moped around for a while after he left.  To cure the void, we got busy with our boat chores and finished the day with a night out at the Cinema.  We were pleasantly surprised by the soft leather reclining chairs in the theatre, complete with tables that swung over your lap for food and drink.  An attendant came to take our order and explained that if we needed anything else to just push the call button, what fun!  The theatre with its large viewing screens has an incredible sound system; the vibrations could be felt reverberating through our chairs.  Due to the number of expats and visitors to La Paz (The Peace), movies are respectfully presented in both Spanish and English.  As is true with any town, we continue to discover more interesting things to see and do the longer we stay.  Today we explored the northern end of town and stopped at the CostaBaja Resort & Spa.  This beautiful resort sports a marina, golf course, restaurants, and hillside residences.  The resort is also home to an excellent Shell Museum open to the general public.  After enjoying the wonderful collection of beautiful shells, we were invited to have lunch at the Beach Club which overlooks a crescent-shaped white sandy beach.  A lovely negative-edge swimming pool is located above the beach adding to the picture perfect postcard setting.  I must admit; the warm weather, easy-going life style, and friendly people tempts one to choose Mexico as a new homeland.



A Pleasant Place to Live

The Shell Museum - La Paz

Shell Museum

Swims with the Fishes




Snorkeling around the Rocky Reefs

Swimming with the Fishes

John Peering through his Light-Box

A Fascinating Underwater World

A Pretty Landscape ashore

We spent our second day at Caleta Partida snorkeling around the rocky reefs near the entrance to the bay.  Reefs and rocky shorelines provide the best opportunity to see a multitude of fish and the reefs at Caleta Partida were especially rewarding.  Schools of fish surrounded us as we moved through the water displaying our own brightly colored fins.  I felt like a guest in a strange new world and could nearly reach out and touch these underwater creatures.  Different species of fish swam in and out of their hiding places in the coral, while others swam among the sea urchins clinging to the rocks.  We noted that the water felt much cooler than our previous visit in November; however the water temperature was still acceptable for us northerners.  John had brought his air-mattress for some relaxation time on the water.  Not only was he comfortable bobbing on the sea but he could spy on the fish with his homemade “light-box” which he had also brought. Constructed with a wood frame and a Plexiglas bottom, he could easily see the colorful fish and sea life below, while enjoying the warm sun on his back; not a bad way to vacation!  After our swim with the fishes, we took the dinghy to a small secluded beach and walked on shore to admire the giant cactus and see what else we could discover.  We found a National Park sign indicating that a water well was nearby.  Known as Candeloro’s well, it was made by shark fishermen during the 1940’s.  The well water comes from the rain that filters through the rocks along the “arroyo” which finally accumulates underground.  This accumulation of water also supports the growth of vegetation within the canyon.  We hiked up the valley a short distance and easily spotted the well.  We weren’t alone however; the bees were using the well as their source of drinking water!  Not wanting to linger, we headed back to the beach and walked in the soft white sand before motoring back to the mother ship for some lunch.  After lunch and a short siesta, we positioned the boat at Ensenada la Gallina (cove of  fowl) off Isla Espiritu Santo.  We headed out to explore once again, this time by kayak and paddled around the bay admiring the beautiful, clear turquoise water.  We spotted several large fish; of course the Pelicans were much more adept at finding fish than we were.  They quickly zeroed in on their prey, tucked in their wings, and shot straight down in front of our kayaks snatching a fish and gulping it down whole - it was great fun to watch.  After our afternoon anchorage off Isla Espiritu Santo, we headed for La Paz and arrived at dusk.



Candeloro's Well

John Hugging a Giant Cactus

Kayaking at Caleta Partida

John gliding through the beautiful Turquoise Waters

Spelunking

Heading for the Islands near La Paz

National Park Islands near La Paz 

John walking dinghy over the sandy shoals in Caleta Partida

 

Colorful Rock Strata along the east side of Isla Espiritu Santo

Good news, yes Leonard returned from stateside and our Nephew John also arrived on the same flight, joining us for an excursion to the Sea of Cortez.  After a good night’s sleep, we departed La Paz and motored to Isla Partida where we anchored in the pretty bay of Caleta.  The bay is actually the space between the islands of Espiritu Santo and Partida, which includes a narrow passageway.  Getting the dinghy into shore from Caleta Partida to access the passage was an adventure in itself.  The cove was so shallow in spots that we had to raise the motor and walk the dinghy over the soft sandy shoals for part of the way.  Once we reached deeper depths, we motored through the channel and out to the northeast side of Espiritu Santo where several sea caves are located.  Since we were at low tide, we were able to motor the dinghy inside many of the caves.  We used the oars on several occasions to avoid rocks just under the water's surface as we carefully maneuvered into the caves.  One cave was so large that it had several entrances, chambers, and narrow passage ways - it was both spooky and exciting.  John decided he wanted the challenge of stepping off the dinghy inside one of the caves.  We found an appropriate pebble-shore landing inside a wide cave and John made his leap of faith.  After a short stint in the cave, he leapt back into the dinghy and we motored back out into the sunlight.  The most interesting aspect about the caves were the numerous rocks protruding from the walls and ceilings; it looked as if the rocks might break free at any moment and fall down on top of us.  After a long afternoon spelunking, or exploration of these intriguing caves, we headed back to our anchorage.  The geologic history of Caleta Partida is also quite interesting having been the crater of a large, extinct volcano.  Over thousands of years the crater eventually eroded below the level of the sea, losing its western and eastern edges; however high sloping walls inside the cove still remain and are quite impressive.

Crystal Clear Waters in Caleta Partida (note the little Puffer Fish)

Many Sea Caves on the Northeast side of Espiritu Santo

A Cave with Multiple Entrances

Venturing into the Cave

John Diving into the dinghy after Landing Inside a Cave

At Home in La Paz



Pangas line the Beach at La Paz

Community Church and Courtyard

The Public Library at La Paz

Museum of Anthropology & History - La Paz

Vessel Associated with War

We departed Mazatlan on March 6^th at 7am for the long journey across the Sea of Cortez.  We had calm seas during daylight hours but the wind kicked up over night averaging around 20 knots.  As morning broke, the seas calmed once again and we arrived at La Paz in the afternoon around 1pm.  We were greeted with the usual barrage of guys ready to wash our boat and ladies offering their laundry services.  With our chores out of the way and paperwork completed, it was nap time for Java and crew.  After some shut-eye we were ready to enjoy La Paz which now feels like a home away from home - the malecon, community church, library, shops, and cafes are familiar hangouts.  And it’s a great place to spend time when on your own.  Yes, Leonard flew to Seattle to take care of some business and will renew his visitor’s Visa when re-entering Mexico; unless he decides to leave me here, ha.  Travel Visas for Mexico are good for only six months; if you want to stay beyond the six month period you must leave the country and return in order to get a new 6-month Visa.  My turn comes later; in the meantime Java and I are holding down the boat in La Paz.  Our new friend Del, whom we had met on a neighboring boat along with his wife Trudy, jokingly told me he would be giving Leonard a report regarding my shopping expeditions.  I’m happy to say my only purchase thus far has been from the panaderia for some delicious pastries.  I was also successful in locating the Museum of Anthropology & History in town which houses some wonderful photographs and historical information.  The first floor includes photos and reproductions of Mayan artifacts from the Yucatan Peninsula including vessels, bowls, and figurines.  Examples include The Weaver figurine which depicts a woman at her loom working with the weaving sticks, shuttle, and warp.  Another figurine depicts the likeness of a ruler or “halach uinic” with his fine clothing and complex headdress adorned with feathers.  Examples of clay vessels on display are engraved with images from nature like the turkey buzzard, associated with war.  Snails representing life, water, and birth are also depicted on Mayan clay vessels.  The museum’s second floor includes fascinating photos of cave drawings that were discovered in the mountains of northern Baja California Sur and southern Baja California known as the Great Murals.  These murals consist of prehistoric paintings of humans and animals, often larger than life size on natural rock shelters.  Red and black were the colors most frequently used, but white, pink, orange, and green also occur.  The existence of the Great Murals was noted by Jesuit missionaries in the eighteenth century.  The third floor of the museum touches on geology and the fourth floor covers the arrival of the Spanish and Mexico's early developments. 

The Weaver Figurine

A Ruler Figurine

Larger Than Life Cave Paintings (photo)

Another Fascinating Mural (photo)

Archaeological Museum - Mazatlan



Old Town Mazatlan

Old Town Mazatlan

Nice Apartments in Old Town

Serving Bowl - Archaeological Museum

Figurines - Archaeological Museum, Mazatlan

Decorative Plate

Lovely Pots



The Hunchback

We spent our last day in Mazatlan visiting the small Archaeological Museum in Old Town.  The museum showcases artifacts of the indigenous people who inhabited the Sinaloa territory long before the arrival of the Spaniards in 1531.  Over 10 thousand years ago native peoples were hunting with arrowheads and spears; starting about 4,000 yrs. ago these early inhabitants learned to farm maize, chili beans, zucchini, and root vegetables like sweet potatoes.  They also grew cotton and tobacco and took advantage of fruit trees like guava and plums.  Settlements found along the edge of rivers and in marshy swamp land have provided archaeological material, revealing a highly developed culture.  These sites are often recognized from the surface by remains of Mollusk shells, housing bedrock, and ceramic fragments.  Artifacts housed at the museum include bowls, pots, and figurines dating between 750 AD and 1200 AD along with human remains found in large ceramic urns.  Indigenous groups of Sinaloa buried their dead twice.  The first time in a space dug in the ground, then after two or three years the bones were dug up and placed in an oval-shaped ceramic urn with a lid.  In 1995 in the town of Chametla, five urns were unearthed of which one contained the remains of a male with pots and arrowheads.  The others contained the remains of children and young women.  Two of these urns are exhibited at the museum in Mazatlan.  The predominant colors of the various ceramic pots and urns are red, orange, black, and cream with different geometric designs like circles, rhombuses, dots, spirals, staggered lines, and checked patterns.  It is believed that some vases depict gods relating to agriculture like the Maize God and Rain God.  Other vases depict more sinister images like The Snake of the Clouds and the God of Death.  Research indicates that plain pots were used mainly for cooking, while the highly decorative ones were used primarily for serving the food.  Diaries of the Spanish Conquistadors describe the magnificence of the Sinaloa, especially Chiametlan (now Chametla) on the Baluarte River, and Quezala on the Presidio River.  Mud figurines are considered one of the most important findings.  The figurines are generally naked, occasionally dressed in loincloths and wearing ornaments such as necklaces.  Both men and women wore jewelry.  A figurine which was found while altering the Nautical School in Mazatlan is known locally as “Jorobado de la Nautica” (or Nautical Hunchback).  The figure has a hunched back and is dressed in a leather loincloth.  Hunchbacked people were believed to have special sacred powers and sometimes were recruited into the local government to bring good luck.  We enjoyed learning about the indigenous people of Sinaloa and seeing all the wonderful artifacts. The museum is well worth a visit and information is printed in both English and Spanish.

Intricate Designs



 

Ancestral Burial, Second Phase

Turtle Release



An Olive Ridley Hatchling

The Box of Hatchlings

Biologist Passing Out the Hatchlings

Hatchlings Heading for the Sea

Today we had the unique opportunity to participate in the release of baby sea turtles at a local beach near Marina El Cid in Mazatlan.  Conservation programs help protect and save the endangered Olive Ridley Sea Turtles along the west coast of Mexico.  Thanks to city, state, and federal agencies as well as private organizations, the Olive Ridley has made a comeback.  Several hotel and marina resorts, including Marina El Cid, help in this effort by inviting guests to learn more about preservation practices.  Our tour from Marina El Cid included a visit to the Mazatlan Aquarium who sponsor a program to protect these precious turtles.  The Aquarium partners with local resorts so tourists can participate in the release of the hatchlings.  We got to see an adult Olive Ridley Turtle and the aquarium and saw various fish, coral, and other creatures of the sea.  The Mazatlan Aquarium includes a small zoo with prehistoric creatures like frogs, toads, snakes, crocodiles, and ostrich.  Frogs and Turtles are actually the last living representatives of the “Jurassic Period” and scientists can trace these creatures to the days of the dinosaurs!  Every summer Olive Ridley Turtles return to their native beaches to lay their eggs, venturing hundreds of miles before arriving at their birth place.  The nesting season takes place June through November; females lay about a hundred eggs and may nest up to three times a year.  The eggs incubate for approximately 55 days before they hatch.  After our tour of the aquarium, we were taken to a beach near Marina El Cid to release the hatchlings.  Hatchlings are released at dusk so they can follow the light of the setting sun; it is also believed that they can hear the sound of the ocean.  The aquarium's resident biologist gave each of us a hatchling and asked that we name our baby turtle before placing it about 20 feet from the ocean surf.  We watched as the hatchlings slowly made their way over the sand heading towards the sea.  As the surf rolled into shore, the waves washed over the turtles, sometimes flipping them on their backs and washing them up on the beach from wince they had started.  They struggled to flip themselves over and then once again began heading towards the sea.  It reminded us of the 1966 film and song entitled “Born Free,” a story about survival in the wild.  Hatchlings are dark gray in color and appear black when wet.  As they grow older, they turn an olive green for which they are best known.  Our babies, which we named Veloz and Rodriguez, will feed on algae, and when older feed on jellyfish, sea urchins, shrimp, crabs, rock lobsters, and worms.  The species Lepidochelys olivacea or Olive Ridley are medium sized turtles with a shell length of about 2 feet and weigh between 80 and 100 pounds.  Known predators of the Olive Ridley include raccoons, feral dogs, birds, the ghost crab, the sunbeam snake, oceanic fishes, sharks, and crocodiles.  Additional threats come from boat collisions, incidental takes by fishing nets, and decimated nests on beaches take a significant toll.  Turtle preservation programs have helped increase the turtle population by harvesting eggs and keeping them safe at the lab covered in their native sand.  It's fascinating to learn that eggs incubated at temperatures of 31-32 degrees Celsius will produce only females; eggs incubated at 28 degrees Celsius or less produce only males; and incubation temperatures of 29-30 degrees will produce a mixed sex clutch.  After our hatchlings had safely reached the sea, we returned to Marina El Cid where participants enjoyed dinner at the resort’s restaurant.  We had a great time with the group which consisted of Mexican, Canadian, and U.S. tourists in addition to our guide, Julio.  Julio presented everyone with a certificate, which included the chosen name for each turtle.  We certainly hope our little hatchlings Veloz and Rodriguez overcome the 10-15 percent chance of survival and live to the ripe old age of 50 years.


Rodriguez On His Way




Such a Cute Turtle Face

Adult Olive Ridley Turtle

Cold Spell!

Mazatlan Area - Marina to the north, Isla de la Piedra anchorage south

Ruben with the Finished Product

We left the bird sanctuary of Isla Isabela on Sunday, February 17^th at 2pm and arrived in Mazatlan the following morning at 2am.  Having arrived in the dark, we motored to Stone Island anchorage (Isla de la Piedra), dropped the hook and got some sleep.  After a leisurely breakfast we headed for our assigned boat slip at Marina El Cid and new home for the next week or two.  The temperatures in Mazatlan were perfect - high 70’s to low 80’s.  Recently, however, temperatures have dropped to 69 degrees Fahrenheit in the morning with a high of only 75 degrees in the afternoon, burr!!  We felt so cold, the long-sleeved shirts, fleece jackets, and long pants came out of the closet.  Yes, we are in big trouble and may find it difficult to adjust to the “extreme cold temperatures” of the north country.  We no longer question why children are wearing sweaters to school and can now relate to comments from locals about the freezing temperatures of the North.  Speaking of locals, while in Mazatlan we engaged the services of an upholsterer to re-cover the cushions in our salon.  Upholsterer Ruben came to the boat and showed us several fabric samples; after making our choice, he went off to place the order after taking our down payment.  When the fabric arrived he came back to pick up our cushions - yes, he now had our money and our cushions!  Not to worry, he returned in four days with the cushions beautifully upholstered; we were pleasantly surprised and glad to have had the work done in Mexico at a much more reasonable price than in the States.  Ruben seemed to know what he was doing from the start, we asked him how he had come to learn the business.  He said his father had been an upholsterer and his two brothers are also in the upholstery business.