Sunday, February 17, 2013

Isla Isabela, More than Boobies



Isla Isabela
Lago Crater
Male Frigate-bird
Female Frigate-bird
Young Frigate-bird in Flight
Isla Isabela is a birdwatcher’s paradise offering many species in addition to the ever present population of boobies.  The island is literally covered with birds.  One of the cruising guidebooks suggests looking for the flocks of circling birds to find this incorrectly charted Island.  In addition to the variety of boobies, the island is also home to Great Frigate-birds, Magnificent Frigate-birds, Sooty Terns, Brown Noddies, and Heermann’s Gulls.  It seemed eerie walking across the island while so many birds stared down at us from every tree-top and frigate-birds flew about overhead – it was as if we were in a scene from Jurassic Park.  The island is actually a result of prehistoric volcanic activity, and the caldera of this extinct volcano is located in the middle of the island.  The caldera has since filled with water and is called Lago Crater.  Frigates, which are related to the Pelican, look rather prehistoric.  They are a long-winged, fork-tailed bird with a hooked bill.  Interestingly, frigates can’t walk very well and do not swim, so are essentially aerial creatures.  Having the largest wingspan (85 inches) to body weight ratio of any bird, they are able to stay aloft for more than a week, landing only to roost or breed.  The only other bird known to spend days and nights on the wing is the Common Swift.  Male frigates are all-black and have a scarlet throat pouch (gular pouch) that is inflated like a balloon during the breeding season to attract a mate.  Females are black, but have a white breast and a blue eye-ring, while immature birds have a white head and white under-parts.  Nests are constructed in low trees and a single egg is laid each breeding season.  Both parents take turns feeding for the first three months, after which the mother feeds the young for another eight months.  Since it takes so long to rear a chick, frigate-birds do not breed every year.  It is typical to see juveniles as big as their parents waiting to be fed.  When youngsters sit waiting for endless hours in the hot sun, they assume an energy-efficient posture - their head hangs down and they sit so still that they appear to be dead.  When the parent returns, however, they wake up and the hungry juvenile plunges its head down the parent’s throat and feeds.  Because frigates produce very little oil, they are unable to land or take off from the water so their food source is caught in flight, snatching prey from the beach or ocean surface with their long, hooked bills.  Sometimes frigates rob chicks from other seabirds, earning the nickname, Man of War birds.  We also saw Brown Pelicans and Heermann’s Gulls strutting along the beach.  Adult Heermann’s Gulls have a medium gray body and a red bill with a black tip.  In the breeding season the head is white and in non-breeding season the plumage is a dusky gray.  After breeding, the bird colonies disperse to central California and south as far as Guatemala, and less commonly north as far as British Columbia.  Heermann’s Gulls sometimes pirate prey from other seabirds, particularly Brown Pelicans with whom they keep company.  We also enjoyed seeing the numerous iguanas and lizards on the island, scurrying over rocks and hiding in the underbrush.  Visiting Isla Isabela is a wonderful stop for boaters, but the island is exposed to wind and ocean swell with a rocky irregular bottom that tends to "eat" anchors.  It has been suggested that boaters secure a rope to the boat end of the anchor chain so it can quickly be cut loose in case of bad weather or in case the anchor becomes lodged in the rocks. 

 


Male Frigate-bird looking for attention
A Serious Male Contender with a Female and Younger Frigate-bird
Juvenile Waiting to be Fed
Baby Frigate-bird
Heermann's Gulls
The Cute Heermann's Gull
A Camouflaged Iguana

Galapagos Island of Boobies




Boobies high above Got D' Fever
Blue-footed Booby
Pretty Blue Feet
Brown Booby
Brown Booby
Yellow-Green Feet of the Brown Booby

Booby in Flight
From Chacala we headed west off the mainland coast for the island of Isabela located 40 miles northwest of San Blas.  This unique island (a national park and world heritage site) is referred to as the “Galapagos of Mexico” due to its isolation and the large number of bird species including a variety of boobies like the blue-footed booby and the brown booby.  The name booby comes from the Spanish term bobo which means stupid, fool, or clown.  Being seabirds, boobies are rather clumsy on land and are regarded as foolish for their apparent fearlessness of humans.  After anchoring for the night, we took the dinghy ashore the next morning and hiked to some cliffs overlooking the sea, a favorite location for nesting boobies.  We were delighted to find blue, yellow, and green-footed boobies as well as young goslings.  One mother boobie even proudly revealed her eggs for us to view!  Boobies nest on small divots in the ground created as part of a larger colony.  Both males and females take turns incubating the eggs, using their feet to keep the eggs warm.  The incubation period is 41-45 days with a nest of 1-3 eggs; chicks must be kept warm up to a month old.  Blue-footed boobies hunt for fish to feed their young by diving from a height of 33-100 feet into the sea and pursue their prey underwater.  The Blue-footed booby has permanently closed nostrils made for diving, necessitating breathing through the corners of their mouths.  Facial air sacs under their skin cushion the impact when hitting the water around 60 mph and protect the brain from the enormous pressure when swimming to depths of up to 82 feet.  Boobies are comical characters and seem to have a human-like expression.  During mating season, the males put on a dance by raising and strutting their colorful feet in front of the females.  Perhaps not too different from human males honking their car horns to get females to look at them.  The dance also includes “sky-pointing,” which involves the male pointing his head and bill up to the sky, while keeping the wings and tail raised.  Females tend to choose males with brighter feet since the brightness decreases with age and lower fertility.  It is also believed that food-deprivation can cause a decrease in foot brightness.  After our hike along the ridge and back through the sparse forest, we motored the dinghy around the island.  From the dinghy we could see brightly colored fish through the clear turquoise water and also saw birds nesting in crevices along the cliff faces.


Nesting Booby with Feathers Fluffed

Brown Booby checking her Eggs


A Family of Boobies

Baby Testing His Wings

Friday, February 15, 2013

Picture Perfect



Picturesque Chacala
A Pelican Visitor

Beautiful Beach and Coconut Palms at Chacala
We departed Nuevo Vallarta on February 14th in Bandares Bay and anchored for the night behind Punta Mita on the north end of the bay.  We planned to motor for 6 hours the following day to the small village and picturesque bay of Chacala.  We arrived at Chacala in the early evening with the sun shining brightly on the beautiful beach and colorful houses and beach palapas; coconut palms lined the beach and orchards could be seen along the flanks of a collapsed volcano - a beautiful tropical setting one might dream about.  This small cove was once home to the indigenous people of the Texcoxquin who lived here for thousands of years.  The Spanish arrived in 1524 and later the Portuguese explorer Sebastian Rodriguez-Cermeno sailing from Manila, stopped here in 1596.  The notable Jesuit Father Eusebius Francesco Kuhn and his party departed from Chacala on his expedition to Alta California in 1683.  Chacala remained a small fishing village and coconut plantation for many years.  In more recent times, Chacala has become a lovely retreat for vacationers looking for a place off the beaten path.  During the 1980’s, Doctor Laura del Valle transformed the town into a distinctive destination.  She built simple accommodations to house visiting American medical students volunteering at the local health clinic, which she had founded to serve the Mexican poor.  Today the clinic serves as a Retreat & Wellness Center and still supports a variety of non-profit projects for local communities, including the neighboring impoverished farming town of Las Varas.  Today, Chacala has a population of about 300 permanent residents and remains a picturesque stop.  There are some challenges for boaters, however.  The small cove is open to ocean swell so it’s one of those rolling anchorages, and access into town is by dinghy or kayak only so a wet landing is to be expected.


Village and Beach Palapas - Chacala
Orchards On the Hillsides
Gorgeous Sunset at Chacala
A Warm Glow at Chacala

Monday, February 11, 2013

Art Walk

 




Malecon - Puerto Vallarta
"The Ladder"




Puerto Vallarta at Night
We rode the bus into Puerto Vallarta for a day in the city and enjoyed a leisurely walk along the malecon.  The numerous sculptures and benches along the waterfront make for a fun and relaxing outing.  We couldn’t resist taking in the beautiful scenery and sitting on many of the bronze sculptures designed for that interactive tactile experience.  A favorite with locals and visitors alike is “the ladder,” tempting all who pass by to climb to the top!  We felt like locals enjoying the simple pleasure of life on this quiet weekday without the cruise ships in town.  We also hiked up the hill to our favorite tapas restaurant for an early lunch and discussed our plans for heading north, so many pretty coves and islands yet to discover.


"The Chairs"
"The Couple"
Merman and Mermaid
Gods of Earth, Sea, and Sky


Reaching to the Heavens

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Keep It Cool


The Genset
Genset Water Pump - Impeller and Cap Removed
Water Pump for Starboard Engine
Dismantled Water Pump
Making sure that engines continue to be cooled while running is an important part of pre-emptive maintenance.  Today Leonard worked on the Genset, he replaced a leaking hose, changed the zinc, and replaced the water pump impeller which pumps raw water for cooling the Genset.  He also rebuilt the water pump on the starboard engine which was weeping a small amount of raw water.  The lengthy process of rebuilding the water pump involves changing the bearings, putting in new seals, and sanding or polishing the inside of the pump to extend the life expectancy of the newly inserted impeller.  Like the Genset, the main engines are cooled by raw water.  A vital part of the water pump is the impeller, a rubber device with vanes that compress at a narrow point in the housing, spinning and draining out the water.  I am happy to report that our mid-trip maintenance check list is completed and we can now begin the long journey northward.

Impeller
Water Pump Removed from Starboard Engine

Friday, February 8, 2013

Cleaning the Heat Exchangers


Cleaning the Engine Heat Exchanger
Engine Heat Exchanger
Housing for the Engine Heat Exchanger
Another maintenance item checked off the list - Leonard spent the entire day cleaning out the heat exchangers for the diesel engines and the heat exchangers for the transmission on the port and starboard sides of the boat.  Heat exchangers are the equivalent of a car’s radiator, except sea water is used to cool the engine instead of air.  Coolant antifreeze surrounds the heat exchanger while sea water flows through the small tubes inside the heat exchanger.  To enable cooling water to flow more freely through these small tubes, a brass rod is used to clear out any debris.  Cleaning out the engine heat exchangers is a messy job and involves removing hoses, draining out antifreeze coolant, and removing engine parts.  Care needs to be taken when using the rod inside the small tubes so as not to damage the unit.  After cleaning out the heat exchangers and putting hoses and parts back together again, the antifreeze coolant is added back to the engine's reservoir.  Since raw water or sea water used to cool the engines is expelled through the exhaust system, we always check for water at the stern of the boat when starting the engines.


Cleaning the Transmission Heat Exchanger
Adding Antifreeze Coolant

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Changing Fuel Filters




New Paper Element for Primary Filter
Today we changed the fuel filters on both engines; there are two fuel filters per engine - the “primary filter” and the “final filter.”  The primary fuel filter has a 30 micron element to filter the fuel which is then passed on through the final filter located on the engine itself.  The primary filter system contains several components including vanes that spin the fuel, creating a vortex action separating out any water.  Water which is heavier than fuel is collected and drained.  The final filter has a 10 micron element and is the last stage for filtering dirt, water, and other contaminants from the fuel.  After replacing the pleated paper element for each unit, the filters are pre-filled and primed to eliminate air in the system.  Other projects this week included replacing the zincs.  We also hired a diver to clean the bottom of the boat, an on-going challenge in warmer waters.

O-Ring for Filter Cap
Final Filter on Engine
Priming the Final Filter