A Child’s Sea-side Room Swept Away

Crescent City Beach

We couldn’t leave Crescent City without enjoying the pretty crescent shaped beach.  We took Java along and she had a ball running through the sand after her Frisbee.  Leonard even drew a heart in the sand with our initials - wow, a rare romantic moment!  It seemed rather touching since I had played here as a small child during the late 50’s.  I was on vacation with my parents and we stayed in a cute sea-side B&B; I was quite delighted to have my very own room with a dormer window and lace curtains.  Leonard and I decided to try and find the house but we soon realized that it had probably been swept away in the devastating ocean surges of the 1964 tsunami, triggered by an earthquake in Anchorage Alaska.  It took only 4 ½ hours for the first of a series of tsunami waves to reach Crescent City.  The shape of the sea floor and bay caused the waves to amplify.  The final 20-foot wave inundated the harbor and crashed into land covering 29 city blocks, 11 people lost their lives.  Now a large city park occupies the area along the beach where these summer cottages and B&B's once stood – no wonder I couldn’t find that cute little house!  Crescent City again faced a series of tsunami waves after the Tohoku earthquake in March 2011.  The boat basin’s infrastructure was destroyed – 16 boats sank and many more were damaged.  Now barely over a year ago, less than half the docks have been replaced.  Most of the existing docks are only temporary, including the guest dock we were on.  This California town understands the destructive power and financial loss of a tsunami perhaps better than any other West Coast town!

Java Playing Beach Frisbee

Wow! a Romantic Jesture

Marina Docks Before the 2011 Tsunami

Docks Destroyed After the 2011 Tsunami

The Sun Sets over a Hopeful Community

Crescent City Harbor & Lighthouses

Crescent City Harbor(s)

Marina Breakwater

Concrete Dolo

Battery Point Lighthouse

St. George Reef Lighthouse

We left Brookings on May 30^st around 1:10 pm and headed for Crescent City, passing St. George Reef and its historic lighthouse (constructed 1883-1891) located due west of our route.  After rounding Point St. George on the mainland, the lovely Battery Point Lighthouse came into view.  Crescent City fortunately has a marina that’s protected by several breakwaters, which create an inner and outer harbor.  The breakwaters are constructed of steel reinforced geometric concrete blocks called “dolos” and concrete blocks shaped like jacks.  The force of the water is dissipated by the curve of the legs.  We arrived at the marina around 4:15pm and easily found space on the guest dock.  We walked into town the next day and visited the Battery Pt. Lighthouse & Museum operated by the Del Norte Historical Society.  The Cape Cod style lighthouse was built in 1856 and the first Keeper started on Christmas Day of that year.  In 1953 the lighthouse was automated and a modern 375mm lens replaced the fourth-order Fresnel lens.  In 1964 the lens was turned off but lit again in 1982 and the Battery Pt. Lighthouse was listed as a private aid to navigation with a resident Keeper and volunteers.  The tour included the Keeper’s quarters with some original furnishings and the original Keeper’s clock.  We also climbed the spiral staircase and a ladder through a hatch-door to the lens – a unique treat.  The St. George Reef Lighthouse is also of historic significance.  The location on St. George Reef was selected due to its history of serious maritime accidents, including the 1865 wreck of a side-wheeler, the Brother Jonathan, resulting in the loss of 215 lives.  After the lighthouse was completed in 1891, it was considered to be one of the most dangerous stations in service - four keepers were killed while on duty.  The lighthouse is located 7 miles off Point St. George; surprisingly, guided tours & helicopter fly-bys are available November through April pending weather and NOAA permits – a Raven R-44 helicopter lands on a 42-foot wide section of the caisson roof near the base of the tower.

Spiral Stairs to Lighthouse Lens - Battery Pt. Lighthouse

Leonard Climbing Ladder to Lens Room

A Peek into a Different World

227-Ton Haida and 25-Ton Got d' Fever in Port

Shrimp Net

Hauling in a Bounty of Shrimp

Port Brookings and the Chetco River, Pacific in Background

Replaced Docks at Brookings after the 2011 Tohoku Tsunami

Docking between two commercial fishing boats isn’t always a bad thing; it can be an opportunity to meet some friendly and interesting folks as we discovered in Brookings.  We had the opportunity of a life time when we were invited to a barbeque dinner aboard a neighboring 227 ton commercial shrimping boat, named Haida.  We came aboard with a load of questions about commercial fishing and went away with a greater understanding and appreciation of this highly competitive business.  We had been under the impression that individually owned commercial fishing boats mainly fished in local waters near a home port; when in fact, commercial fishermen go all over the world following the movement of fish like tuna for example.  The Haida is currently set up for shrimping and has cruised the entire West Coast and at one time traveled through the Panama Canal to fish in the Gulf Coast.  Locating fish and understanding where they are headed is an all important component for financial success.  Commercial fishermen also need to invest in expensive equipment, understand regulations, be a financial manager, fish broker, marine biologist, and people manager to hire and manage a crew.  Another major factor for success is keeping the catch fresh (chilled) while they continue to fill their hold and return to port.  Keeping up with new techniques for preserving and transporting fish and shrimp is important to stay competitive.  The Haida just invested over a hundred thousand dollars in a new chilling process to super-chill (near freezing temperature) shrimp to maintain its flavor and freshness for market sales.  Interestingly, fish prices have increased dramatically in recent years due to the increased demand from China, adding to the local, national, and international competitiveness of commercial fishing and shrimping.  By the end of the evening, we finally got to ask one of our burning questions – why do fishing boats leave their huge, bright flood lights on all day and night?  Answer - to keep an electrical load on the boat’s motor generator (Genset) used to create AC electricity for the boat.  Underscoring the massive size of equipment on these commercial fishing and shrimping boats, the crew humorously noted that Haida has the same John Deere diesel engine as Got d’ Fever’s main engines, however, on Haida this engine is used to power just one of their three generators - now that’s a serious boat with serious equipment!  The vessel Haida was built in 1979 and owner Mike Smith has been refurbishing the interior with new floors, finished ceiling work, and new galley cabinets and countertops - an ongoing project of several months’ time and labor.  Oh, did I mention the fantastic dinner – we had barbequed tuna served with a delicious currant/wine reduction sauce, asparagus, and squash.  Not only is Mike an extremely successful commercial shrimper, but an excellent cook as well.  We were also impressed with the friendly and welcoming nature of our host and his mates, sharing jokes and stories as if they had known us for years.  Other guests at the barbeque included staff from the Port of Brookings.  Dan, who is the operations manager of the port, pointed out the area of docks that had been damaged by tidal surges as a result of the March 2011 Tohoku earthquake in Japan and the Tsunami that followed.  Forty percent of the docks at Brookings were destroyed, three boats sank, and numerous boats damaged, while a boat still attached to a dock was swept out to sea.  Thankfully, the Port received funds from FEMA to replace the docks, and employees worked hard to clean up all the debris on their own time.  What an informative and fun evening we had! We even came home with crabs, no not that kind, the edible kind which Dan gave us.  We continue to be pleasantly surprised at the opportunities to meet people from all walks of life - pleasure boating seems to afford lots of invitations to rub elbows with others.

Shaken and Stirred

Automated Bar Signal

Java's Balancing Act

Blanco Reef

We checked on the bar report before departing Charleston on May 26^th.  Automated advisory signals are posted at every bar - two flashing amber lights indicate rough bar conditions.  In addition to these advisory signals, boaters routinely call the Coast Guard at each river bar for any vessel restrictions.  In this case, the Charleston Bar was restricted to vessels 20 feet and under.  Since we were well above the 20 foot limit, we legally crossed the bar around 1pm but met 6-7 foot waves outside the bar with some 8-foot swells.  Normally these seas would not be so bad but the waves were coming from all directions.  These “confused seas” meant steeper waves with lots of tossing, shaking, and rolling.  I felt like a pin ball inside a pinball machine!  Java would stand up once in a while and lean sharply from side to side - she seems to have mastered the balancing act better than we have.  We continued south with the plan to stop at Bandon, one of Oregon’s prettiest beaches, but the bar in this instance was closed to ALL vessels.  We had read that Bandon is often the first bar to be closed and the last one to open.  The bar at Bandon is very narrow and exposed to northwest wind and ocean swell so boats often have to wait several days before they can leave port.  As we continued south from Bandon, the seas eased to 4 or 5 feet; we cruised past Cape Blanco and beautiful Blanco Reef with its long line of rock spires.  After passing the reef, we headed toward shore for Port Orford, arriving around 6:30pm.  There is no river bar to cross at Port Orford and no breakwater, which means there’s no dock or marina available for pleasure boats.  However, Port Orford has suitable anchorage for protection from northwest winds.  Ocean swells nevertheless sweep into the bay so we had a long night of “rock-a-bye baby.”  Our anchor was set firmly in the mud but as a precaution we used the GPS navigation software for an “anchor watch” establishing a 40-yard circle.  If the anchor slipped and the boat strayed outside this designated circle, an alarm would be activated giving us time to take action before ending up on the rocks.  After a somewhat sleepless night, we departed the next morning around 6:50am.  This time we were welcomed by calm seas with only 1-2 foot swells – Pacifico was over her ill-tempered mood.  We enjoyed a peaceful cruise the entire day, spotted several whales and saw more beautiful rock spires off Mack Reef and Cape Ferrelo.  We arrived at Brookings, Oregon near the California border on May 27^th around 12:45 in the afternoon, a major mile stone on our journey down the West Coast.

Cape Ferrelo

Approaching Brookings

Waves of Sand and Rock

Oregon Dunes Recreation Area

Lorena on her ATV

Leonard at the top of a Large Steep Dune

The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area spans 40 miles along the Oregon central coastline between Coos Bay and Florence, offering 5,900 acres of sand in which to play.  Not wanting to pass up the opportunity to play in the “big sand box,” we rented a car to visit the Park.  We were surprised to learn that ATV’s, UTV’s, and dirt bikes are still permitted to travel over these enormous dunes; the Park even includes staging areas and camp sites.  I decided the best way to see the Dunes would be to rent an ATV; how hard could it be?  I discovered it’s more challenging than it looks.  Speed is your friend when it comes to climbing a 30 degree plus slope; if you don’t make it to the top, you have to back down and get another run at it!  In addition to the speed necessary, the ATV is squirrely in sand but you don’t want to over steer or you will be in trouble.  After I got the hang of it, I was able to make it to the top of a big dune by the end of our hour’s rental time.  Leonard made it to the top of an unbelievably steep dune and down again!  I have to say it was worth renting the ATV’s to really appreciate the expansive and scenic dunes – waves of sand as far as the eye can see.  We also took a sightseeing trip by car around the large body of water called Coos Bay, crossing over the interesting McCullough Bridge and visited the town by the same name.  Another highlight was the drive out to Cape Arago (south of Charleston) where we found beautiful vistas of the rocky shoreline – we could see the ocean spray and various shaped slabs of rock from the Overlook high above.  The Cape and Overlook is part of the Shore Acres State Park and includes the estate botanical gardens of Louis Simpson, a pioneer lumberman and shipbuilder of the 1920’s.

Driving over the McCullough Bridge

The McCullough Bridge over Coos Bay

Cape Arago

Cape Arago

Sheer Boredom to Sheer Excitement

Leaving the Umpqua River Bar, North Jetty in background

Heading out the Umpqua River Bar

Jetty at Coos Bay Bar

Entering Coos Bay, Sea Caves in background

After arriving at Winchester, the clouds began to move in and the wind picked up.  We spent two nights at Salmon Harbor Marina listening to the howling wind and rain.  The Coast Guard had closed the bar to all vessels so we would be at port until further notice.  I spent some time working on my Spanish and Leonard took care of some engine maintenance.  Fortunately by the third day the bar was open to vessels over 36 feet - we departed at 2:15pm and headed across the Umpqua River bar.  We saw 10 foot waves breaking along the north side of the channel – it was an awesome sight to behold!  We stayed as far south as possible while keeping in the main channel of the bar.  The sea seemed to look at us as the swells rose and fell around our boat.  The Pacific was showing her true nature unlike her misleading name of Pacifico – at last some exciting seas!  Outside the bar we found 4-5 foot wind waves with 7-8 foot ocean swells, now considered calm after crossing the bar.  Java took it all in stride, believing that rocking is now part of the daily routine.  Larger waves meant it was harder to spot those crab pot buoys and we had to keep a constant vigil.  After three and a half hours of riding the ocean swells, we arrived at Charleston near the town of Coos Bay to cross yet another bar with areas of 4 foot and 6 foot sea swells.  Carefully following the channel buoys and range markers, we arrived at the Charleston docks around 6pm.  We found the docks to be in poor condition, some were tipping sideways and others had rusty metal pieces protruding outward.  There was also the challenge of maneuvering in current while looking for a suitable place to dock.  Luckily, a fishing boat had just left the guest dock opening up a more desirable space.  We have come to really appreciate all the nice marinas and dock facilities in Puget Sound and our northern islands, not to mention the beautiful scenery.  Cruising the Pacific coastline is definitely all about fishing; for most pleasure boaters, however, it’s the path to and from Mexico.  After docking at Charleston, three guys from a neighboring sailboat came over to say hi, they were on their way home to Woodinville, Washington (Seattle) from La Paz, Mexico.

Docking Options at Charleston - Coos Bay

A Better Option

Florence Hospitality

Bikers Line the Streets of Florence

Carnival Rides During Rhododendron Festival

With Friends Dave and Chris Aboard their New Boat

Rhododendron Float - Florence

Trees Decorated with Knitted Blankets

Coastal cruisers often bypass Florence, perhaps due to the reported low bridge clearance; we’re so glad we made the stop.  Old Town Florence located along the bank of the Siuslaw River is a real treat.  The town has a variety of charming restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops.  The clothing boutiques, art shops, and other retail stores are adorable, some of which are located in early period homes.  Our weekend stay at Florence coincided with the annual Rhododendron Festival, which included a parade and carnival rides.  A large number of motorcyclists had come to town and the streets were lined with bikes while antique cars cruised through town, temporarily turning this quiet hamlet into a party town.  Trees along the sidewalks were decorated with knitted blankets, flowers, and butterflies – what a clever idea!  After the festivities, our friends Chris and Dave invited us to their boat for an evening barbecue along with other friends from the community.  We had a wonderful time and met some great people – that’s one of the special things about boating, meeting different people and discovering new places.  Sunday morning we enjoyed watching the Rhododendron Parade and absorbing the small town atmosphere.  We departed Florence around 1:15pm with a bon voyage from Chris and Dave.  Passing over the bar turned out to be a non event; what had been our most challenging bar to-date became our easiest crossing to-date – hardly any waves to speak of.  Our cruise down the Coast to Salmon Bay at Winchester (west of Reedsport) was also easy with only 2 foot seas.  We entered the Umpqua River bar about 5:15pm with some waves and strong current but easily manageable.  We made our way to the Salmon Harbor Marina and were greeted with an unexpected surprise!  Chris and Dave were there to greet us bearing gifts - two large salmon steaks and two large halibut steaks!  Dave is an avid fisherman and very successful at catching enormous fish.  Perhaps he took pity on us when we told him our success is realized when we find off-boat fish sales.  All kidding aside, we so much appreciated their generous gift and thoughtful hospitality.

Battle Stations

Siuslaw River Bar

Siuslaw River and Dunes

Siuslaw Bridge

Pretty Dunes along the Siuslaw River

We departed Newport at 8:35am, cruised out the Yaquina River and found 6-7 foot waves at the mouth of the bar.  It was battle stations – batten down the hatches and stow the gear.  We had only 4-5 foot seas outside the bar; but because of the angle of attack, the boat was rolling more than one might expect; occasionally a rouge 8 foot swell would come along.  The seas settled down later in the morning to 2-4 foot swells with an occasional 5 footer.  We reached the mouth of the Siuslaw River near Florence at 13:10.  Waves at the bar were reported to be 2-4 feet but looked to be more like short-coupled 4–6 foot seas that covered the entire width of the bar; it was our most challenging bar crossing to-date.  Because of the narrow entrance and the river current, the boat was pushed around in the water making it more challenging to steer.  Once we were through the entrance, however, it was easy cruising.  The Siuslaw River is absolutely enchanting with a variety of plant life and pretty sand dunes along the river banks.  We made our way 5.5 miles upriver to the Siuslaw River Bridge, charted as having a 17 foot clearance (not enough for Got d’ Fever) but reported by locals to be more like 35 feet.  Fortunately for us, the locals are correct and after we lowered our antennas, we were able to clear the bridge - we didn’t have to request and wait 2 hours for a bridge opening.  Just beyond the bridge is the quaint town of Florence where we were greeted by our friends Chris and Dave, the previous owners of our boat.  They received our lines and gave us a warm welcome to Florence.  We were ready to walk the area with them, but within a few minutes, the Coast Guard showed up for a safety inspection of our boat - offered as a request but it’s really an order.  I am happy to say we passed with flying colors.  They inspected the boat for the requisite number of life jackets, fire extinguishers, garbage and oil discharge placards, and visual & sound signals.  They also inspected the “y-valve” for the product that comes from the toilet and asked if we had a copy of the Coast Guard Navigation Rules.  They were more than happy to see that we were well prepared, including onboard survival suites and an emergency ditch bag with a personal locator beacon.  The Coast Guard guys were very friendly and it’s nice to know they are around, ready at a moment’s notice.  They talked about how the fishing boats seem to be the most unprepared when it comes to safety equipment and boat maintenance, sad but often true.  After the CG boys left, we went out to dinner with our friends and toured their new-55 foot Hampton, which they had purchased just a month ago.  They love their new boat but said they still hold a special place for Got d’ Fever, known as Reel Sketchy when they owned it.  Yes, boats are like pets, they become a member of the family and it’s hard to let go.  We wish them good cruising and lots of fun with their new boat.

Will we fit Under the Bridge?

Our Friendly Coast Guard

A Pirate’s Day at Newport

Aquarium Village Shops

Leonard the Pirate

Tall Ship - Lady Washington

Old Town Bayfront

We spent our last day in Newport seeing some of the more touristy areas of town including Aquarium Village, a collection of shops located in warehouses with decorated pirate-theme storefronts.  Leonard got into the spirit of things and momentarily turned pirate.  After lunch, we rode the public bus across the bridge to Bayfront (old town) where the commercial fishing fleet is located.  We walked the piers and saw more tourist type shops, including the all important saltwater taffy shop.  A couple of “Tall Ships” were moored at the Bayfront docks making preparations for weekend tours and naval battle recreations.  After a perusal of the area, we continued our walk northwest to Nye Beach with its upscale boutiques and art shops.  The beach itself is beautiful, framed by a prominent lighthouse on both its north and south end.  We watched as big ocean waves rolled in and over the wide sandy beach.  When it was time to head back to the boat, we decided to be brave and walk across the Yaquina Bay Bridge rather than take the bus.  It was a little intimidating looking out over the ocean and peering down at the Yaquina River over a hundred feet below us!  After we got back to the marina, we finished the day with dinner at the Rogue Brewery & Pub – a pirate must have his brew at the end of a hard day!

Lorena heading for the Boutique Shop

Nye Beach

Walking across the Yaquina Bay Bridge