The Baja Bash



Bahia Santa Maria

As we departed Cabo San Lucas, we encountered 30 knot winds with 6 to 8 foot ocean swells making for a rough ride around the cape; these wind conditions at Cabo are often referred to as “the cape effect.”  Once north of the cape, the winds somewhat subsided, ranging from 10 to 20 knots but the seas were still steep.  As the afternoon turned into evening, the winds got progressively worse.  By 9pm the wind gauge rose and fell rapidly over the course of the evening indicating winds ranging from 10 knots to 40 knots.  Wave heights reached 8-9 feet at four second intervals creating steep valleys.  We found ourselves facing winds that were higher than predicted in the weather models.  Got d’ Fever was rocking like a hobby-horse; we pulled back the throttles, decreasing our boat speed which made for a more comfortable ride up and down the steep pitches.  We were indeed experiencing the “Baja Bash,” heading into wind and waves that push down from the north; once again Got d’ Fever made us proud and handled the seas well.  Java, too, took it all in stride and assumed her usual position backing into a corner and supporting herself with her front paws like an old salty sea dog.  She did discover that bathroom breaks were rather challenging, however.  Large waves sent spray over the bow and onto the Portuguese-bridge so we took her pee mat to the back of the boat where she could take care of business.  Java squatted over her mat as the boat pitched up and down, sending her airborne at times.  After several attempts she finally accomplished her business, what a trouper!  We continued our hobby-horse ride through the night, arriving at Bahia Santa Maria the following day around 1pm. 


Safe at Anchor in Bahia Santa Maria

Spare Anchor

Time to set the hook and get some sleep but not so fast!  We discovered that the stack of neatly flaked (laid) anchor chain had fallen over on itself, burying the leading end which meant we could not payout our anchor and chain - the powered windlass was unable to pull up the chain from the anchor locker.  After some quick thinking, Leonard brought out the spare anchor, attached a line to the anchor’s piece of chain and the other end to the bow cleat.  He lowered the anchor overboard to temporarily hold the boat in place while we sorted out the pile of chain in the anchor locker. 

Entering the Anchor Locker

Crawling inside the locker, he began untangling the mess while I ran the windlass to let out the chain a little at a time.  We coordinated our efforts by hand-held radio communication and after working for about an hour, we finally had our main anchor deployed and set.  Surveying the rest of the boat was the next order of business. 

Bow Cleat and Windlass

As we checked on things, we discovered that straps on one of the kayaks had come loose, the dinghy had inched forward on its shocks, and a jar of roasted peppers had dumped over in the refrigerator.  Even my little “dust buster” went airborne from its holder and landed on the bed.  After 27 hours of motoring and things put back in place, it was finally time to sleep.

Controls for Windlass at Helm Station

Left Turn or Right Turn?



Departing Cabo San Lucas

The Beautiful Cape

After several days in Cabo contemplating our next move and discussing the logistics of each decision, we decided to turn right and head north to spend the summer months with family and friends.  Leonard is looking forward to working on some boat projects and I am looking forward to doing some sitting with the grandchildren.  



Rounding the Cape and out to Sea

And so begins the “bash” up the Baja Coast.  Once we reach Ensenada just south of San Diego, we have the option of shipping our boat home since two yacht transport services (SevenStar and Yacht Path) have a scheduled pick-up at that location - price, contractual agreement, and scheduling will be the determining factors.  Plan B is to motor our boat as far north as San Francisco and make that our home base of operation for the summer.  With those options in mind, we departed Cabo San Lucas on April 28^th and rounded the beautiful but challenging cape in rough seas.  

The Cape Continues for Several Miles

Whales near the cape came to see us off, flapping their fins and tails as if to say farewell, come again!


Whales wishing us Farewell



A Wave Goodbye in Rough Seas

Cabo San Lucas, the Party Town



Marina at Cabo San Lucas

We “upped anchor” at Ensenada de los Muertos around 8am and headed for Cabo San Lucas on April 23rd.  The seas were classy calm, enabling us to witness several sea turtles swim past the boat.  We also saw a number of whales and numerous mobula rays performing aerobatic belly flops.  Similar in appearance to the manta ray, the mobula ray is often referred to as the “flying mobula” due to their spectacular breaching of upwards to six feet, finishing their show with a big splash. 


Shopping Mall at Cabo San Lucas Marina

After 12 hours of motoring, we reached Cabo San Lucas known as the party town of Mexico, mostly due to the tourists that come here each year.  Visitors to Cabo arrive to go sport fishing, whale watching, sightseeing, play golf, enjoy the beaches, and the five-star hotels not to mention the endless opportunity to buy souvenirs from vendors located around the central area.  For the upscale shopper, clothing boutiques and home décor can be found in the beautiful shopping mall (similar to Bellevue Square near Seattle) next to the marina.  Night time however is when the town really comes alive - restaurants and bars fill with people and loud music that lasts into the wee hours of the morning with song and drink. 



Numerous Cafes surround the Marina

It’s not surprising that Cabo San Lucas is a popular destination for college kids on spring break, and for retirees looking for fair weather activities.  Cabo San Lucas is worth a visit and can be lots of fun but we prefer the more genuine Mexican towns like San Jose del Cabo, located a few miles to the east.  This charming town is definitely worth a stop and is on our list of favorites.  

A Serenade at Lunch

Just the same, we had a good time in Cabo San Lucas and ate at several good restaurants.  We also took an evening stroll to experience the party-like atmosphere and hubbub of Cabo.  

Souvenir Booths at the Marina

I must admit that I played the gullible tourist and bought a few souvenirs and had my picture taken with the resident pet Iguana which was surprisingly cuddly, sombrero and all.  Not to be outdone, Java was seen sporting her pretty black and gold sombrero while taking a siesta.  Perhaps she was dreaming of senor perro, or was she dreaming of home?


Streets Filled with Souvenir Shops



The Resident Pet Iguana

A Sweet Cuddly Amigo

Another Cuddly Amigo

Goodbye La Paz



Sunday Brunch in La Paz

Our last stay in La Paz was spent enjoying time with friends and going out to several different restaurants.  We had a beautiful Sunday Brunch at Palermo’s Restaurant along the waterfront - the chile relleno was delicious as were the omelets, roasted meats, and various salads including the tasty cubed sweet potato salad.  On another occasion our friends Michael and Judy joined us for dinner at the Apostolis Mediterranean Restaurant, one of many excellent restaurants in La Paz.  We had first met Michael and Judy in Alameda and the four of us seemed to hit it off; we’ve kept in touch ever since. 


Out with Friends Michael and Judy

We so much enjoyed visiting with them over dinner and catching up on their cruising plans.  Mutual friends from Alameda were also in La Paz so we all got together for drinks and pizza one evening, another great time with some equally adventuresome folks. Meeting new friends among the boating community as well as experiencing the local culture makes it extremely difficult to leave Mexico.  The Mexican people are wonderful and we remember all their smiling faces and unsolicited helpful gestures.  Carlos is just one example.  He and his team of workers skillfully washed, waxed, and refinished the wood caprails on our boat.  They were so caring, friendly, and hard working. 


A Handshake Deal with Carlos

One afternoon I made a chocolate cake to share and we had an impromptu party on the dock, what fun!  On the day of our departure, Carlos came to see us off while his Mexican compatriots on the neighboring boat helped release our lines.  They all wished us farewell and stood on the dock waving goodbye as we faded from view - it nearly brought tears to our eyes.  To borrow a line in the movies quoted by actor Kevin Costner, “Nothing I have been told about these people is correct.”  As is often the case, the news media in the U.S. has incorrectly and unfairly labeled these people as all thieves and tricksters.  

Carlos and his Crew on Break

We have found the Mexican people to be very warm, friendly and supportive of each other with strong family values who want their country to be free of crime and the drug cartels.  It is our understanding that the drug cartels, which get weapons from the U.S. and deliver their products there, have currently been pushed into the southern regions of Mexico near Acapulco.  Although there are both rich and poor people in Mexico as in all countries, the Mexican people have a strong sense of unity and cooperation.  Rather than feeling entitled, they take positive and progressive steps to better their lives, resulting in an ever increasing comfortable lifestyle while maintaining the simple pleasures of family and friends.  

Shiny New Caprails

We have found that the longer one spends time in Mexico, the more the country grows on you.  We have learned to look past the uneven sidewalks; the homes in need of painting, or the cracked concrete structures – these things don’t seem so important anymore.  After taking on fuel, we left La Paz (the peace) with mixed emotions and headed for Cabo San Lucas, stopping at the Cove of the Dead (Ensenada de los Muertos) along the way for the night’s anchorage.  We would reach Cabo the following day and make the tough decision to turn right, or turn left.


At the Fuel Dock - La Paz

Lovely Sunset and Dunes at Los Muertos

Around and Around We Go



Dockwise - Float on, Float off Method

After spending a restful night on the hook at Bahia Amortajada, we experienced quite the opposite in the bay of Ensenada Grande off Isla Partida.  Like other anchorages in the Espirtus Santo island chain, Ensenada Grande is open to the southwest.  We were visited by a coromuel that blew all night between 18 and 26 knots - Got d’ Fever was bouncing and rolling so violently we had to hang on by the seat of our pants; we felt like laundry in a washing machine!  Thankfully our repaired bridle system attached to the anchor chain worked well and held fast.  Coromuels that blow into the Sea of Cortez occur more frequently in the late spring and summer months, a portent of worse things to come. 

Boats being transported by Dockwise

Summertime is noted by the arrival of the hurricane season which typically begins May 15^th and lasts through October.  Some boat insurance companies require vessels to be north of latitude 27 degrees by the first of June or be located in an approved “hurricane hole.”  Marinas like Costa Baja and Marina Palmira in La Paz; El Cid Marina in Mazatlan; and marinas at Guaymas, among other locations in Mexico, are considered acceptable hurricane holes.  After our wild night at Isla Partida, we made our way into La Paz the following morning as did several other boats that had anchored in the bay.  No more procrastination, our mid-April arrival in La Paz meant it was “decision time.”  Do we leave the boat in La Paz for the summer and return next season to continue south through the Panama Canal?  Do we have the boat loaded on a transport ship and sent home for the summer months?  Or do we motor the boat north ourselves, commonly referred to as the “Baja Bash?” 


Yacht Path - Lift-on, Lift-off Method

Having the boat shipped home certainly saves diesel fuel, added maintenance, and hours on the engines not to mention the long overnight watches.  On the other-hand, transporting a boat is expensive and more complicated than it first appears.  Lengthy contracts need to be signed, pick-up and delivery dates aren’t always on time, damage might occur, and other complications may arise.  Currently, there are four major yacht transport services from which to choose:  Dockwise Transport, Yacht Path International, Peters & May, and SevenStar Yacht Transport.  Dockwise offers the float-on, float-off process, while the other three companies operate a lift-on, lift-off procedure.  Additionally, SevenStar also offers the float-on, float-off option and the roll-on, roll-off option which uses specially built trailers to load fully enclosed cargo ships.  Peters & May also offers the roll-on, roll-off option.  These yacht transport services lease deck space on large cargo ships for their customers and normally include insurance in the quoted price.  

Boats being transported by Yacht Path

Transporting yachts is big business and the industry is currently undergoing some changes due to a recent incident when several boats were impounded because the transport service company failed to pay the shipping company.  We learned that this incident was due to a failed merger of two yacht transport services which resulted in legal action.  The courts froze all assets, including the financial accounts of the transport service company which meant the shipper couldn't be paid!  It is our understanding that Yacht Path has now begun the practice of opening individual escrow accounts to protect their customers from third parties. 

SevenStar - Lift-on, Lift-off Method

Coincidentally, Yacht Path has a scheduled pick-up in La Paz around the first of June, and SevenStar has a planned stop in La Paz at the end of May.  That being said, there are also benefits to “bashing” north on one’s own boat bottom: spending time at favorite stops like Santa Barbara, San Francisco, and Monterey; the flexibility of one’s own schedule; and the pride of rounding Cape Flattery heading down the home stretch. 

Fully-enclosed Container Ship - Roll-on, Roll-off Option

And cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest is always a joy, rain or shine.  But there’s the nagging question regarding our next international cruising destination; where should we go next and will it be with Got d’ Fever or with a newer DeFever purchased in the near future; or should we buy/lease a “long-boat” in France to cruise the canals of Europe?  So continues the quandaries of life's journey.

Marina Palmira - La Paz



Amortajada Lagoon’s Wild Kingdom

 

 




Pretty Bay of Amortajada

We departed Bahia Candeleros at 9am, rounding San Marcial Point in calm seas.  After six hours of motoring we reached the island of San Jose and anchored in Bahia Amortajada in front of the bay’s large lagoon.  The following morning we ventured through the mangroves and into the lagoon but only after covering ourselves with Cutter’s insect repellant! 


Anchorage in front of The Lagoon, Isla San Francisco in distance 

As the local saying goes, wherever you find mangroves, you’ll find jejenes (pronounced hay-hay-nays)!  These tiny insects are less than 1/16 of an inch long and look like little black dots on your skin but have a ferocious bite!  Called no-see-ums or midgies in the United States and Canada, these biting flies spit a protein into its prey as it bites, leaving a stinging, itchy burn that’s several times more itchy than a mosquito’s bite and lasts longer.  One out of four people produce an antibody to this protein which causes large red welts to appear on the skin and most everyone finds it difficult not to scratch at the stinging, irritating bites. 



Entering the Mangroves

Unlike the mosquito’s bite that’s felt after its done feeding, the jejen’s attack is detected at the onset and can be swatted away.  Jejenes don’t actually feed on blood, they feed on flower nectar; the females however require the protein in blood for their eggs to mature.  Yes, it’s only the females that bite, primarily around dawn and dusk; I guess they get cranky that time of day.  

As we motored over the sandbar and into the mangroves, these gals seemed quite determined to find a piece of our skin not covered in repellent.  Fortunately wind is an enemy of the jejenes, even a breath of wind can send them careening out of control.  

Speeding Through the Channel

After reaching deeper water, we were able to speed through the mangroves, free of the jejenes.  We soon reached the end of the channel and entered the large lagoon with views of Isla San Francisco in the distance.  

Clear Water and Lush Green Mangroves

Wild life in the lagoon included a handsome looking species of Heron and several species of fish.  The shallow lagoon can be entered from either direction, but not wanting to linger we decided to speed back the way we came in.  Amortajada Lagoon is the largest lagoon in the Sea of Cortez and is worth a visit, especially if you want a first-hand experience with jejenes.

A Heron Standing Guard



The Channel empties into a Large Lagoon

Amortajada Lagoon - Channel Entrance on Left, Anchorage in Foreground

Bahia Candeleros



On the Way to Candeleros - Someone Loves Isolation!

After cruising a short distance south of Puerto Escondido, we decided to stop at Bahia Candeleros to visit the new resort of Villa del Palmar which recently opened in 2012.  We anchored in the bay and took the dinghy ashore to have lunch at the hotel. 


Bahia Candeleros and Hotel Resort

We were pleasantly surprised to find a luxury resort at this small, remote looking cove all beautifully landscaped with native plantings, a cactus garden, and manicured lawns.  Boaters visiting the bay can stop in for lunch or dinner and make use of the swimming pools or spa. 



Beautiful Setting at Villa del Palmar

We opted to have lunch by the pool-side cabana, sipping lemonade and devouring some delicious ham/provolone sandwiches. Villa del Palmar was developed by the Villa Group, a leading private resort and real estate corporation which plans to add a Rees Jones golf course at Bahia Candeleros.  The first 9-holes are expected to be open by 2014.  

Casual Elegance at Villa del Palmar

Timeshares and ownerships are also envisioned for the future.  The Villa Group owns 3600 acres of land at Bahia Candeleros so there’s plenty of room to expand.  A benefit for guests of the hotel is the free shuttle bus service to the town of Loreto.  After spending a full afternoon touring the resort, we decided to stay at anchor for an early morning departure.  That evening the winds picked up to over 20 knots and we slept to the serenade of chain, anchor, and bridle clanking through the night.  In the morning we discovered our safety line (a bridle configuration attached to the anchor chain) was badly frayed.  After removing the frayed section and using the remaining length of line, it was good as new.  

Pool-side Dining - Villa del Palmar

As we were about to depart, we noticed a strange looking object in the water making its way along side our boat.  We walked to the stern and saw what looked like a long string of human DNA.  It moved along the surface of the water and then started to descend.  “What on earth was that?!”  After some research we decided it was a string of “salps.”  Salps are barrel-shaped, jelly-like organisms or tunicates with openings at each end of the tunic through which water is pumped.  

Multiple Pools at Palmar Resort

The pumping of water allows the salp to move and feed at the same time, straining water through internal feeding filters.  Salps can live alone or live as a community.  These small creatures are the fastest-growing multi-cellular animals and are capable of explosive, asexual reproduction, cloning themselves and creating chains of dozens of individuals.  The group of salps communicates by electrical signals, synchronizing their movement through the sea.  Although similar in texture to jellyfish, salps are actually more closely related to vertebrates.  Scientists speculate that the tiny groups of nerves in salps are one of the first instances of the primitive nervous system which eventually evolved into the more complex central nervous systems of vertebrates.  They are indeed a fascinating sight to behold.



Pretty Grounds at Palmar Resort



The Cactus Garden

A String of Salps