Volcanic Island of Coronados

 

 

 




Lovely Town of Loreto - beautiful mountain and tree setting

Before reaching the volcanic island of Coronados, we stopped off at Loreto on our way north to pick up some groceries.  Unfortunately, Loreto doesn’t have a harbor for boats other than pangas so we anchored offshore and took the dinghy in for supplies. 



The Outskirts of Loreto

The local children love to watch your dinghy for a small fee or help with your lines and load your groceries at departure.  We encountered a group of very enthusiastic boys who each wanted desperately to earn their own dinero.  We engaged their services and they left with big smiles, anticipating future business deals to come.  It was great fun to revisit the charming town of Loreto.  Like La Paz, Loreto has a lovely malecon and a tight-knit community spirit.  The town square, streets, and beaches were full of people celebrating the Easter weekend, spending quality time with their families.  In addition to the lovely malecon, historic buildings and church mission, Loreto has one of the prettiest town squares and many fine cafes.  It is not surprising that Loreto has become a popular vacation destination and home to many expatriates from Canada and the U.S.  As fortune would have it, a couple from Kirkland stopped by to say hello; they had noticed the name of our homeport printed on the stern of our boat.  We had a long chat and learned that they have a home in Loreto where they live most of the year. 




Newly Extended Malecon at Loreto

After picking up groceries at Loreto, it was back to the boat for a short cruise to the nearby island of Coronados.  

Whale Shark Sculpture; Isla Coronados in Backgound

This cone-shaped island with its turquoise colored waters and beautiful soft sandy beach is another favorite National Park.  A well maintained trail leads partway up the island, about a six mile round-trip hike.  Steep, rocky cliff-sides surround the old volcanic cone (928 feet), while the southern portion of the island is long and low.  We walked part of the park trail and came across various plants, birds, and even a nasty looking snake.  The snake was lying right in the middle of the trail as if waiting for us; I made a careful detour and the snake slithered off into the bushes, creating a zinging sound over the sand covered terrain.  The next day, Coronados was still calling to us.  We took the kayaks into shore and hiked to the end of the trail, this time wearing our boots so as not to get bitten by any creepy-crawlers.  We didn't see any snakes that day but we did come upon a nest of yellow-jackets near the trail.  We reached a field of rocks partway up the mountain; fortunately stacked rocks (cairns), marked the way.  As we made our scramble over the rocks, we could hear what sounded like glass breaking under our feet; pieces of beautiful obsidian lay scattered throughout the rock field.  We soon discovered lizards were crawling under all that rock!  One fat, colorful lizard crossed right in front of me; not wanting to have his picture taken he quickly dashed down a big hole in the rocks.


Isla Coronados




Hiking the Sandy Trail on Isla Coronados




One of Several Beaches at Isla Coronados



A Cairn Marking The Way

Partway up Isla Coronados



The Ominous Looking Black Snake

Palo Adan Thorn Bush



Torote Blanco Tree




Got d' Fever Anchored off Isla Coronados

The Magnificent Cardon



Evening Light on the Giganta Mountains - Bahia Marquer

We departed Bahia Salinas in the afternoon on March 28^th and motored to the southwest side of Isla Carmen where we anchored for two nights in scenic Bahia Marquer.  The bay offers a stunning view of the Giganta Mountain Range and at night you can see the lights of Loreto twinkle in the distance.  Bahia Marquer is also a good spot to go ashore for an up-close look at the magnificent cardon cacti. 


Another Lovely Moonlit Night

Flowers and Ribs of the Cardon

The giant cardon cactus dominates many of the deserts of Baja California and is closely related to the saguaro of Arizona and Sonora.  The cardon however is not frost-tolerant so these two giant cacti occupy distinct geographical regions.  The cardon is the largest of all cacti and specimens have reached a height of 70 feet, weighing up to 25 tons with a life span of 300 years!  The cardon forms multiple branches quite close to the base resulting in a number of long, straight vertical arms. 



Cardon Cacti along the Shoreline

We spotted a number of cardon cacti on shore and headed out with the dinghy to get a good look.  We gingerly walked through the grove of cactus, taking care not to get poked by the sharp protruding thistles.  

Grove of Cardon Cacti

“Cardo” means “thistle” in Spanish.  It is said that when Hernando Cortes attempted to establish a settlement in Baja in 1535, the numerous spiny cacti earned Baja the name “Isla de Cardon,” at that time they believed the peninsula was an island.  The extensive, shallow root system of the cardon can quickly capture rain from the brief, torrential downpours in Baja, storing over a ton of water in the fleshy, pulp-like tissues of its trunk.  To support all that weight, the cactus has an interior framework of hardwood vertical ribs that are lightweight but extremely strong.  These vertical ribs or rods allow the cactus to expand and contract like an accordion, storing water needed for survival.  The Native inhabitants of Baja used the flesh of the cactus for its healing properties and used the long straight ribs of the cactus for spears, fishing poles, fences, and beams for house walls.  They also used the fruit and seeds of the cardon for making flour and juice.  Flowers of the cardon are located on the upper portion of the plant and are white or light in color, blooming March through June.  The deep-throated, bell-shaped flowers open in the afternoon and stay open all night, then close about mid-morning the next day.  This occurrence is a matter of importance since the cardon depends on nightly visits from nectar feeding bats for pollination.  It’s such a treat to see these large cacti; unfortunately many have been destroyed over the years by land cultivation and development.  In 1893-1913, the French historian and naturalist Leon Diguet made six scientific expeditions to Mexico and was one of the first scientists to use photography to illustrate his findings.  One of his rare photos shows an enormous cardon cactus.

Size Perspective of the Giant Cardon



Some Handsome Specimens

Walking Among the Giants

Historic 1893 - 1913 Photo - an enormous Cardon!

A Photographer's Delight



Salt Ponds at Bahia Salinas



Old and New at Bahia Salinas

As described in the previous blog posting, Bahia Salinas on Isla Carmen is a fascinating place and a photographer’s delight; so many wonderful photo opportunities:


Machinery sits silent behind the Village of Salinas




Housing of an Earlier Time - oh the stories it could tell

 

The Inspiring Chapel at Bahia Salinas

 

A Scene out of the Old West

Old Water Tank at the Village of Salinas

Ruins of Salt Production Business at Bahia Salinas

A Haunting View





Lonesome Doorways and Offices 





Ghostly Remains of an Earlier Time

Ghost Town at Bahia Salinas



Lovely white Chapel and Fishing Lodges on Isla Carmen



We departed Isla San Francisco at 7am in the morning; after motoring for ten hours we reached the beautiful island of Carmen and anchored in Bahia Salinas for the night.  Rollers from the Sea washed into the bay but thankfully not as violent as the night before.  The next morning we took the dinghy into shore to see the tiny village of Salinas consisting of a chapel, a few guest lodges for fishing and hunting, and the interesting ruins of a commercial salt operation.  The once grand salt mining operation, begun in the 1700’s, shipped salt to ports around the world.  Equipment from the operation can still be seen near the salt ponds; the once busy pier, office buildings, supply shops, and housing quarters stand in ruins along the shoreline. 



Picturesque Chapel - Isla Carmen at Bahia Salinas

The salt flats were discovered by the Jesuits in 1697, when their ship the San Jose was taken into Bahia Salinas for repairs.  And so began the harvest of a very fine grade of sea salt.  Over the years, a long line of entrepreneurs were allowed to lease these salt beds for development and production.  Russian ships from Alaska began to visit Isla Carmen every three years to obtain the exceptionlly pure salt for curing furs.  

Fishing and Hunting Lodges - Bahia Salinas

The island and its salt production exchanged hands many times over the next hundred years.  It was owned by California, Oregon & Mexico Steamship Company which was associated with the Santa Fe Railroad.  The Railroad invested considerable money in machinery and other improvements including a small railroad that was constructed at Bahia Salinas.  In the early 1900’s the salt works were bought and sold several times and finally ended up in the hands of the Pacific Salt Co. Limited of London.  

Ruins of the Salt Production Plant at Bahia Salinas

Salt Ponds at Bahia Salinas

As different salt producing areas of the Baja peninsula were discovered and exploited, the salt works on Isla Carmen could not compete due to the high cost of running the operation.  In 1978 it was necessary to close down the salt production plant, a long process which ended in 1983.  

Silence at the Salt Ponds

After 278 years of salt harvest that began with the Jesuits, the small community of Bahia Salinas became a ghost town.  The Salinas del Pacifico still holds title to the island and the salt works.  Today the island serves as a biological preserve for the Desert Bighorn Sheep which were introduced to the island in 1995.  Animals are kept in check by allowing limited hunting; fishing excursions are also offered for guests of Bahia Salinas. 

A Once Importaant Office Building at Salinas

Bahia Salinas is definitely an enchanting place and the beautiful scenery feels surreal.  We spent time walking the salt flats and exploring the ruins, imagining the people that once worked here and what life must have been like so long ago.  The white chapel in the tiny village adds to the picturesque setting.  It looks like a scene straight out of the old west; I could just see Clint Eastwood walking around in his serape, and hear the sound of spurs clinging with each step.

Touch and Go



Approaching Isla San Francisco

During our stay in La Paz we made preparations to venture further north into the Sea of Cortez for undiscovered destinations and new adventures.  While Leonard readied the boat for departure, I flew to San Diego and returned the following day with a new VISA - the old one was about to expire and I didn’t want to be left behind in a Mexican jail!  After my return from stateside, we restocked the galley, took on fuel, and departed for Isla San Francisco.


Crescent Bay at Isla San Francisco

The Winds Begin to Blow

Shortly after leaving the harbor, we were intercepted by a panga.  Similar to our experience while cruising earlier in Mexico, a panga with four Marine Police boarded us and asked to see our papers.  Once the paperwork was checked and verified, we were under way once again and arrived at Isla San Francisco in the early evening.  As the sun began to set; a warm glow illuminated the red rock cliffs and the white crescent-shaped beach.  Later, the moon turned its full face to the night sky; it was a beautiful calm evening but short lived.  As we finished dinner and began to settle in, we noticed that the wind had picked up; soon we were experiencing a full-blown Coromuel.  Got d’ Fever along with other boats anchored in the bay were rocking and rolling like hobby horses.  Fortunately, we have a practice of always setting the anchor well, including the use of a bridle! 


A Beautiful Moonlit Night

A Coromuel is a weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area of the Baja California peninsula.  It has a rapid onset and can be very strong especially in the Bay of La Paz.  They typically begin in the evening and blow throughout the night in a south to southwesterly direction, often reaching as far north as Isla San Francisco and up to twenty miles east of Isla Partida.  The winds are created when the cool marine air from the Pacific side of the peninsula are drawn over the relatively warmer side of the Gulf of California.  

Short-lived Calm Sea

It is unique to the La Paz area since there is not a mountain spine to block the air flow.  The wind indeed reached our anchorage at Isla San Francisco; it was a wild, wooly night but we endured the ride.  By morning we were glad to depart and continue our journey to the fascinating island of Isla Carmen.

Coromuel Air Flow

A Comfortable Life Style



Crescent Sandy Beach and Negative-Edge Swimming Pool

Relaxing at the Pool - CostaBaja Resort

CostaBaja Resort

We had a great time with John bicycling around La Paz and sorry that his stay had come to an end.  Even Java moped around for a while after he left.  To cure the void, we got busy with our boat chores and finished the day with a night out at the Cinema.  We were pleasantly surprised by the soft leather reclining chairs in the theatre, complete with tables that swung over your lap for food and drink.  An attendant came to take our order and explained that if we needed anything else to just push the call button, what fun!  The theatre with its large viewing screens has an incredible sound system; the vibrations could be felt reverberating through our chairs.  Due to the number of expats and visitors to La Paz (The Peace), movies are respectfully presented in both Spanish and English.  As is true with any town, we continue to discover more interesting things to see and do the longer we stay.  Today we explored the northern end of town and stopped at the CostaBaja Resort & Spa.  This beautiful resort sports a marina, golf course, restaurants, and hillside residences.  The resort is also home to an excellent Shell Museum open to the general public.  After enjoying the wonderful collection of beautiful shells, we were invited to have lunch at the Beach Club which overlooks a crescent-shaped white sandy beach.  A lovely negative-edge swimming pool is located above the beach adding to the picture perfect postcard setting.  I must admit; the warm weather, easy-going life style, and friendly people tempts one to choose Mexico as a new homeland.



A Pleasant Place to Live

The Shell Museum - La Paz

Shell Museum